Bring On The Stifado

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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby Allan » 09 Oct 2015, 19:13

I hope you've decided where you are going to eat in The Village tomorrow evening after your 18.45 appointment at The Sunrise. ;)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 07:12

Hi Allan - I am sure there will be a welcome in the hillside if we venture up this evening :D
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 08:29

Saturday morning and D is just getting lazier with no fresh bread appearing, so toasting yesterday's leftovers for breakfast today. The sun is up, the skies are blue and we only have 4 days left - where has the time gone :shock:

We have two new very pleasant neighbours so have been comparing experiences of Symi over the years, as you do.

So yesterday we set off for Pedi with our first stop for frappe watching the 11am Louka boat head out. We then headed for the Kali from the steps behind the taxi rank, past Thea apartments where we stayed once. We then decided to divert off the Kali and cut across to the "School Steps" and on reaching Chorio had a beer stop at Yiannis Rainbow where we watched intrepid day trippers "do the Kali".

From Yannis we headed along the road where you get that splendid view of the harbour framed by the tall pines. We then headed through the maze that is Chorio seeing the ancient passage ways and some excellent renovated properties. The attention to detail to maintain the character of the island is admirable. We worked our way across coming out at Sevastis Studios and by then it was 2pm so rather than head down the Pedi road we made our way back into Yialos where three day boats from Rodos had deposited a welcome influx of day trippers. After a shared omelette in the Corner Cafe we headed back to the apartment where E had a swim and caught the last of the sun over Nos.

It being the start of the weekend we had a two stop aperitif. The first in Elpida's (of course) and then in Alegrito who always put out some lovely salami and feta with your ouzo. Then we headed to Meraklis which was busy but this time we got a table. We started with steamed mushrooms with feta and beetroot with skadalia. Followed this with lamb and lemon potatoes (D) and Soutzoukakia (E) which were in a very good tomato sauce. The lemon potatoes with the lamb would give Tholos a run for their money and the lamb was exceptional in terms of taste. We reckon that lamb tends towards hogget or even mutton to get the flavour and then cooked for a long time to get the melt in your mouth texture. With the usual and a beautiful complimentary sweet which was jelly on top of custard on top of honey soaked sultanas we paid €35.

Now to see if we can actually make Pedi today - perhaps avoiding Yannis Rainbow on the way over is the secret :o
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 08:31

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Our Downfall - Yannis Beer
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:43

Sunday morning at 09:00 and the threatened rain has not appeared but it is a bit blowy. The sun is up and so far cloudless. On the bread run today one of the taxi boats was being put away for the winter at Harani.

So yesterday we had our usual frappe stop before catching the noon bus to Pedi which was standing room only with a number of visitors getting off for the Pedi Beach Hotel. We hadn't spent a day on Pedi beach for a number of years so we took sunbeds beside Katsaras which we estimate cost €4 as for two plus a large bottle of Fix it came to €12. The sea was lovely and with a picnic lunch of cheese & ham and sausage pie from the kiosk we had a lovely day.

We walked back over to Yialos and during a beer stop at the Stella Bar we bumped into another couple of Symiholics who we have met when staying in Anastasia's in Chorio. It was good to catch up with C&M.

We had the first ouzo & retsina stop at Elpida's and as we had decided to return to Trata had a second stop at Alegrito and E took the opportunity to visit George the jeweller ..... and made a purchase.

Trata had a few people in and we started with the old favourite of stuffed mushrooms. With this we had the imam which was delicious, so good we could easily have devoured a second but we resisted. D then had the Mousaka which is always good there and E had the liver again. With the usual it came to €35. Trata always serves up a traditional menu and never disappoints.

As we walked back there was a large party going on in Manos Fish with Greek dancing and the remnants of crockery being swept up. A flotilla of Turkish yatchs arrived early evening and we think they descended on Manos. It was great to see.

And so only 3 days left :'(
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:46

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The Turkish Flotilla Arriving
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:49

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The Turkish Flotilla Docked
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:51

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Taxi Boat Bedding Down for Winter
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 12 Oct 2015, 08:02

Monday morning and the promised rain has just arrived at 09:00 - it is very light rain so far. There are dark clouds over the Vigla but the sun is shining on Nimos. We have experienced days like this before in October and enjoy the changing face of Symi that the weather brings. It is expected to last the morning and clear in the afternoon. Plenty of time to sort out the PhotoLibrary and get on with the book and as these are only light showers do some cafe hopping.

We omitted to say that on Saturday night the "train" passed us full of young children having the time of their lives - we assumed a birthday party. It stopped at Hirani where two little girls from the shop that has moved there, in all their finery, jumped on to great cheers. Great to see this venture being used by visitors and locals alike.

We also omitted to say that when we reached Trata for dinner the Rugby World Cup game between England and Uruguay was showing in the bar next but one to the taverna.

So to Sunday and what started out as blowy became very windy but not bad enough to stop two day boats arriving and the Dodec doing its thing. Posseidon didn't venture out and one of Louka & Irini's taxi boats made a quick change of plan and headed to Tolis. We headed round into Yialos for our usual frappe and then went to Symi Tours to buy our tickets for the Wednesday 08:15 sailing of the Blue Star. A much more reasonable time for a morning ferry and at €8 per head, €5.50 cheaper than the Panagia Skiadeni that we came over on.

We then walked up past Iopetas Hotel and up the steep hill to the cemetery and over towards Nimborio but only went as far as the shack where we had a beer stop and then returned to Nos Beach for lunch of grilled vegetables (pepper, aubergine, mushroom & courgette with a balsamic dressing (new) and skadalia - doesn't need both), the best meatballs on the island and tuna salad (the without salad kind). With the usual it came to €30. A complimentary piece of semolina cake that hasn't changed in all the years we have been coming, except now it has maple syrup drizzled on it (blame Masterchef !), ended lunch in what we regard as the perfect spot even with the perpetual "building". And of course the ceremonial throwing of the uneaten bread into the sea to watch the shoals of bream devour it in seconds was a must.

Home to read and siesta and then out to Elpida's for the ouzo and retsina which came with the usual array of changing mezes - all the perfect accompaniment. The big decision with only three dinners left was a return to Tholos as it has become the restaurant of the holiday just pipping Odyssia. Even with the dying wind precautions had been taken with the covers being up which intensified the conversation of a group of Americans on the table behind us. It seemed to be a competition as to who had traveled most. Thankfully peace and quiet returned as our shared starter of those superb prawns again arrived - this dish has made it to our final night choice already !! We followed this with chicken fillet in a light lemon sauce (E) - this came with rice; and traditional lemon goat (D) which came with the legendary lemon potatoes. We take back what we said about Meraklis getting close on the lemon potato front - last night's were simply sublime. As for the goat this had clearly been cooked with lemons for a long time and fell off the various bones that all add to the taste. The complimentary sweet was Greek yoghurt with honey and figs - beautiful. The bill came to only €40 as we discovered that the Retsina was on the house - another example of Greek generosity.

The "long" walk to Maragaritas and a chat with our neighbouring guests and another enjoyable day ended.

PS. It's now 10:00 am and the rain has gone and just blue skies and sun over the Vigla - normal service has been resumed. Frappe time !!
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 12 Oct 2015, 08:04

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The Gathering Clouds
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby Gemma1 » 13 Oct 2015, 07:23

Those grilled vegetables you had for lunch sound delicious. I confess I have never been to Nos beach as prefer a longer walk and a quieter beach but sounds like it might be worth a lunch stop ;)

I don't understand why Olympic don't use the Blue Star every week at only 8 euros for the crossing, though perhaps they get a good discount on the Panagia Skiadeni as they use it all the time. 8.15 is a much more civilised time to travel :)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 13 Oct 2015, 07:33

Tuesday morning and our last full day on Symi as we are booked on the 08:15 Blue Star to Rodos tomorrow where we have booked a room for day use at the Best Western Plaza as our EasyJet flight is not until 21:10 tomorrow evening. So plenty of time to wander around the Old Town and even get our usual visit to Socrates Garden :D

Yesterday's "weather" didn't come to anything but we were woken during last night with very heavy rain. This has cleared the air somewhat and at 09:00 this morning we have full sun and blue skies and a huge cruise ship - Europa2 (always bring binoculars !) approaching - maybe one of those that has to stay out in the bay off Nos and ship passengers in by tender - we will see.

Yesterday we went to our usual frappe stop just to ensure the weather did not return. It was very humid and no sign of a breeze anywhere. Three day boats came in. We had a wander around the shops and a beer stop in the Corner Bar - no more draught until next year :shock: and then to Elpida's for a cheese & ham omelette for lunch. The weather had come to nothing so we went back to the apartment to pick up our swimming stuff and went down onto Nos beach where we got the grand discount of €1 off the two sunbeds which should have cost €3 each but we got the two for €5 as it was close to 2:30pm :D As the sun started to go down around 4:30pm the need for hard hat and hi-viz started with Dimitri and the boys rebuilding the beach :D

And so to Elpida's for ouzo and retsina and a chat with Captain Yannis of the Posseidon. Then to Odyssia for our last but one dinner. We shared the stuffed squid, the presentation of which was commented upon by an adjoining table (pic up next), which was once again first class. A perfectly balanced stuffing of blue cheese that did not overpower the squid. A top dish. We followed this with soutzoukakia (E) and the amberjack fish (D) which comes with a superb potato salad with capers. This is the second time we have had these dishes and both times they have been executed perfectly - a five star Trip Advisor Review will be well deserved. A complimentary sweet of semolina cake with cinnamon and topped with sesame seeds was excellent. With Catholica once again providing the retsina the bill came to €50. So often fish on Symi is sold by weight, although the likes of Meraklis has a fixed price silver bream at €13, so it is good that Manolis is providing a very good portion of amberjack (magiatiko in Greek) at €17 and has other fixed price fish dishes. After a chat with Angeliki it was home to bed.

PS. The tenders are starting to ship passengers from the liner to Yialos.
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 13 Oct 2015, 07:50

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The Stuffed Squid at Odyssia
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 13 Oct 2015, 07:59

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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 13 Oct 2015, 08:06

Hi Gemma - an idea would be to walk from Yialos up to the cemetery and over the top by St George's church and then head back in via Nos - a mere stroll for you ;) As you say the beach can get very busy - with visitors and "building works" :D but the restaurant is worth a visit. For all the years we have been coming the people from the famous Mylopetra restaurant have gone to Nos for their lunch - every day !!
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 16 Oct 2015, 12:05

It's Friday and we are back in Mid Wales, it is overcast and was 8C when D popped up to the local farm for fresh eggs this morning.

This string left readers on Symi on Tuesday morning, our last full day on Symi. We decided to start the day the frappe way as usual and as that took us to between buses we were decadent (lazy) and took a taxi to Pedi (€5) getting off at the petrol station so we could walk past the boat builders. We always love to see the boats still being built by hand. We then had a Mythos at Katsaras, read our books on sun beds (correction - €3 each; it was the Fix that was expensive in an earlier post), swam, had a cheese pie lunch from the kiosk and took the 15:30 bus back over to Gialos. We were called into the Corner Cafe for a farewell drink with the family and then waved our farewells to Takis and Vasilis in the Stella Bar who were both busy. Back to Margarita's to pack, shower and head out for our final aperitifs at Elpida's. The first ouzo and retsina came with olives, cheese and tomato with a balsamic drizzle; the next with what we think was Burek (feta, egg and filo pie); and the third with octopus and pasta. D is going to see if his local real ale pub - the Ship & Castle in Aberystwyth can match that :o

E went next door to Anna's to buy some final bits and pieces as we had made room in our luggage by donating a fair amount of what we took over to the refugee cause. We often find some great Christmas gifts and of course added to D's growing collection of ceramic tealight houses - our fireplace is starting to look like a small part of Symi. As we left Elpida's her son, who runs the place in the evening, came running after us with a small plastic bag - "for winter" in which he had put some honey and a variety of nougat. It was a lovely farewell gift.

The toss of a euro put Tholos ahead of Odyssia for our final dinner - we really could hardly split them. Since the day before, Manolis, Catholica and Angeliki had made sure that we would remember to say a proper farewell so as we walked by Manolis "invited" us in, sat down and we had a last ouzo with them. Our neighbours from Margarita's, T&J, were there so we all had a chat before we finally reached Tholos. Without even saying what we would have the grilled prawns were written down as they had become our recognised starter of choice. E had the grilled aubergine with mince and cheese and D had the soutzoukakia with pasta. All repeat dishes that we had been so looking forward to and were not disappointed. A complimentary sweet of chocolate ice cream on a semolina and sesame cake saw us being the last people in the restaurant. The retsina once again turned out to be on the house and with tip the bill came to €45. This is truly amazing value for amazing food and even though we normally stay "up" in May we can never see a future visit to Symi that does not include Tholos.

D has a lot of Trip Advisor to catch up on !!!

Next morning Margarita insisted on taking us round to the clock tower to catch the Blue Star which was only slightly late. There was a great deal of activity with many visitors leaving but also many Symiots heading over to Rhodes. This is a much more civilised time to leave the island and what a nice boat. We have often thought about flying to Athens, seeing Athens and then getting the Blue Star to Symi and this is now going to be turned into a firm plan for 2016. We got into Akantia Harbour and there were plenty of taxis just beyond the gate and E grabbed one. We shared the taxi with our neighbours from the apartment who had also taken a room for the day at the Best Western Plaza. We agreed to share another taxi to the airport at 18:30 so agree to rendezvous in the hotel bar at 18:15.

We headed to the Old Town for a beer in Socratous Garden which is a green oasis right in the middle of the busy shopping area which we always try and visit. Then we just try and lose ourselves in the small back streets taking whatever turn we fancy. This time it took us to a very small cafeinion called Angela's Castle where "Angela", we presume, did not speak a word of English. But this tiny old property on a corner of goodness knows where looked so quirky we had to go in and have a small Alpha. If you do come upon this place go in. We then had a small beer in the Yatcht Club which is another confirmed stop.

Having found an interesting part of the town adjacent to the Best Western when we stayed there on the journey over we thought we might try that area for lunch and we were not disappointed. We found a restaurant with quite a small frontage but then discovered it is much bigger than it seems. It is called Koykos and we regard it as a major find. A lunch of the "Restina with 5 small plates" was a 1/2 kilo of Cair with a mezes of beans gigantes in light tomato sauce; slow cooked pork in a rich tomato sauce; feta mashed up with spices to make a dip; tuna with sweet corn and pasta; spiced potatoes and a small portion of bread which cost only €11. We added a Greek salad and a portion of pita bread and with tip we paid €20. These small plates are small but as a lunch for two we found them adequate. This is another candidate for Trip Advisor.

Back to the Best Western where we had taken a room for the day (check out 18:00) for €40. This allowed us to have a nap and although the plan was then to have a swim in the pool we ran out of time and just had a shower and then an ouzo in the bar at the appointed rendezvous time, where we bumped into Toby of SymiDream fame who was seeing his nephew off, and also our Welsh friends who were on the same flight. We then headed out to the airport. A very slick check-in, security and boarding routine with easyJet saw us take off 20 minutes ahead of schedule and on the ground in Liverpool at 11:20, some 25 minutes ahead off schedule. Not wishing to make the 3 hour journey home to Mid Wales at that time of night we were booked (room and adjacent parking for 15 nights with Holiday Extras for £117) into the Hampton by Hilton which is 100 meters from the Terminal Buildings. After a very acceptable buffet breakfast we left Liverpool Airport at 08:30 and were home by 11:30.

Cases emptied, washing machine running and Greyam the cat collected from the Cattery during the afternoon and another wonderful Symi adventure ends and planning for next year commences.

We count our blessings that we found Symi and that we are able to visit as often as we do. Somehow life would not be the same without Symi and the wonderful people who make us so welcome each time we visit.

Efheristo para boli Symi.
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 16 Oct 2015, 12:16

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Mezes at Elpida's - the best
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 16 Oct 2015, 12:17

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Last Morning
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 16 Oct 2015, 12:18

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Lunch at Koykos
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 16 Oct 2015, 12:19

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A Real Find
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