If it's May .....

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If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 12 May 2015, 05:43

It must be Symi !
It is 6am and it sounds very blustery outside here in Llanddeiniol in Mid Wales. Radio5Live is reporting on the financial troubles that still face Greece. And E is still in the Land of Nod :)
It is about time to get up and get stuck into the preliminaries for our regular May visit to Symi. The first and most important task is to get Greyam, our cat, to the cattery. This is no easy task. At eleven years old he has seen this routine twice a year all his life and he just seems to sense that today is the day he has to forego his cat flap and his hunting ground for a couple of weeks. It is the confines of his cat box that is the real issue as once he is in it he loves the trip in the car. His "timeshare" is only 10 minutes away and the girls that own and run the place really spoil him - roast chicken for all the "guests" on a Sunday - now that's a cattery.
Then back to the house and do the recycling, then pack and head for Manchester airport which is about three to three and a half hours in the car. We are booked into the Crowne Plaza for the night and have arranged for the car to be parked there whilst we are away. Anyone who reads my excessive ramblings knows that food is an important part of the holiday so the Crowne Plaza is chosen because it has a first class Thai restaurant.
Our friends P&H will meet us tomorrow morning at Terminal 2 and we will be on the Olympic Germania flight at 09:00 and all being well will be on Symi tomorrow night staying with the wonderful Anastasia (and Sam) in Chorio.
I'm afraid this is the first of what has become a bit of a ritual of sharing my daily mundane observations and gastronomic experiences when we visit Symi. Please excuse any spelling, grammar and boring repetition.
And so the journey starts :D
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby SueO » 12 May 2015, 06:48

Hi

Very much looking forward to your "ramblings" especially as it's been so quiet on the Chat Page lately.

Know just how you feel about getting Greyam to the cattery. We have 3 feline family members, all of whom hate cat boxes - it's a major operation getting them all caught (dragged from under beds, top of wardrobes etc.) and the whole thing makes us feel so guilty. Like you we are fortunate to have an excellent cattery nearby but the trauma of getting them there and settled is pretty stressful for all of us!

Enjoy your Thai meal, have a safe journey and have a wonderful time in Symi.

Sue
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby Pollychops » 13 May 2015, 20:30

Fantastic, we have been waiting for your daily blog on your gastronomic adventure, obviously Greyam has to follow in the same vein.......and why not! Looking forward to your first edition to whet our appetites for our June visit. Have a great time.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 14 May 2015, 10:51

The Journey Over
We headed off from Llanddieniol at 13:30 on Tuesday and got to the Crowne Plaza, Manchester Airport by 17:30 the extra hour being incurred in a traffic jam close to Chester. This seems to be caused by a new set of lights that has replaced a perfectly functioning roundabout and major roadworks at the main roundabout near Chester where you leave the A483 and join the motorway.
Dinner at Sampan's was up to the usual standard with an excellent starter of dim sum and steamed prawns in garlic and spring onion. This was followed by cod (E) and beef (D) both in different kinds of oriental sauces with superb noodles. The lightest of cheesecakes and espresso finished off the meal. With Proseco by the glass for E and a very acceptable Australian Merlot for D, Sampan's remains a favourite.
Next morning the shuttle bus took us to Terminal Two where we met our friends P&H and after a quick and efficient check-in went through the poorly managed security check where queue management seemed to be seriously lacking.
The 09:00 Germania flight got into the air just after 09:30 and having been given seats in row 27 we were at the back of the plane which we like. Particularly on Germania where the trolley service still takes an age but at least now they have hot food and a press of the attendant button can get you that second G&T. They also now sell the usual inflight array of cosmetics and such likes.
We landed at a very quiet Diagoras Airport and have never experiences such a fast bag recovery - hardly time for the traditional €2 can of Mythos from the vending machine but we made it. Then onto the transfer bus to catch the 19:00 Panagia Skiadeni with the new Olympic Rep - Katja - who many regular visitors will recognise from The Nireus or The Secret Garden. Anyone having been on the Panagia will know that it goes from the harbour furthest away from Rhodes town centre so our normal visit to Socrates Garden was canceled and instead we went to Taverna Moupayio which is just opposite the entrance to the port. A very traditional and welcoming taverna : don't be put off by the striptease club next door !! Believe it !
The first ouzo, Mythos and Retsina to wash down some tzatziki, olives and saganaki was partaken.
A superb crossing watching the sun go down behind magical Symi was memorable. The transfer from the clock tower up to Chorio was slick with the bags no longer going on a separate truck but instead of being dropped at the Village Hotel - so ideally placed for the walk along to Anastasia's the first drop was at Taxiarchis and then we were dropped at one of the sets of steps. This was OK for return visitors like us who know our way about and are still relatively fit but we do wonder about first timers and / or those less able to lift suitcases up the stairs.
Dumped the bags and immediately headed for Yannis Rainbow Bar and got the usual lovely welcome. After ouzos and retsinas we did our traditional first night and went to Giorgios.
The mezes of bourataki (king prawns in cream cheese and filo pastry), cheese balls, meatballs, green beans, peppers stuffed with feta, and garlic mushrooms with retsina and water (€50 for the four of us) was, as usual, superb. But what we know will be a disappointment to many is the fact that the "PC" brigade have got as far as Symi and you can now only view the cold display of mezes as walking round the kitchen and looking under the lids has been put a stop to - there was much unnecessary apologising for this but clearly there is recognition that another wee bit of tradition has been chipped away.
And so at 11pm it was time for bed.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby JuliaB » 14 May 2015, 14:33

Appetites well and truly whetted! Sorry we'll miss you this time as we still have four weeks to go till our visit. What a shame that EU bureaucracy has reached Symi restaurants. There will be a lot of guidebooks that need to be rewritten! Have a wonderful time! Julia & Mike
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 15 May 2015, 08:48

Thursday - after unpacking it was time for breakfast and being the first day there were no supplies so off to the Olive Tree to sample Jenine's wonderful menu. Perfectly cooked poached eggs on toast, scrambled eggs and a breakfast roll of egg, tomato & mushroom with great coffee and an excellent smoothie hit all our spots and for €24 for the four of us was superb value.
On the way back to the apartments we stocked up on breakfast supplies and the essentials such as retsina.
Then the first descent of the Kali Strata but to fortify ourselves a small beer in Yannis was called for. Maria was half way down theKali selling her dried herbs.
Yialos was quite busy with day trippers that we watched from the Corner Cafe beer stop before moving over the bridge for a light lunch of omelettes and paninis with a nice chilled retsina. Then a walk towards the clock tower to catch the bank and all that effort deserved an ouzo stop at the excellent Elpidas where we were able to catch up with our friends S&L.
We then walked back and up the Kali for a quick beer in Yiannis before heading home to get changed and back for the evening ouzo (boys) and retsina (girls). We then headed to Zoe's and a mezes of beetroot, tuna salad, moussaka, kalimari, meatballs in tomato sauce, bouryadi & dolmades with a kilo retsina and water (€63). A complimentary retsina and apples with cinnamon ended a superb dinner.
And so to bed.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby Colette » 15 May 2015, 13:06

Hi D & E,

I'm interested to know which steps you were dropped off at as I will be on my way to Anastasia's in June and I'm not to happy about the idea of hauling my case up too many steps. As you said the walk from the Village Hotel is fine, especially with a stop off at the Sunrise for a refreshing drink on route. Enjoy your holiday :D
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby Pollychops » 15 May 2015, 21:33

The PC brigade strikes again......when will it stop? I am sure the experience and quality of food was as always fantastic. We have never been to the Olive Tree so we will certainly this year have breakfast there as is sounds fantastic. Looking forward to the next post.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby Andy W » 16 May 2015, 07:44

Over the past few weeks everyone on the island involved in preparing or serving food or drink for sale has been attending compulsory courses on food and drink hygiene and storage. I think that someone in Athens must have noticed that apart from a small number of people with certificates issued in other EU countries, absolutely nobody in Symi could prove they had ever been taught how to do things safely. There have also been medical checks in Rhodes. All this has been a legal requirement for years, but enforcement has now reached the furthest parts of the Dodecanese.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 16 May 2015, 11:07

Hi Collette,
We were dropped off at the next bend after the bottom of the wee hill that takes you up to Taxiarchis. Just down from the hardware shop / hairdressers. I estimate that there are about a dozen steps to get to the path that then leads along to Anastasia's. We were asked last night by Katja, the Olypmic Rep, when we were at the Secret Garden what we thought and we did suggest that the Village Hotel was preferable.
Also for info the return journey is the 06:30 Skiadeni so early start but many days before we need to address that.
Despite these wee changes Symi remains perfect.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 16 May 2015, 11:08

Hi Julia & Mike,
Keeping the seats in Yiannis warm for your arrival.
D&E :-)
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 16 May 2015, 11:12

Friday and we woke to a beautiful day and the boys (D&P) headed off on the bread run at 07:30. This turned into a bit of a trek through the back alleys of Chorio bringing us out at the highest church in the village. From there we descended back down and round back through the square by Yianis Rainbow and to the bakery.
Breakfast was the usual - yoghurt and honey, cheese, ham and fresh bread. Breakfast whilst looking down to Pedi Bay is one of life's great pleasures.
After breakfast we all headed down to Yialos by way of the school steps. A frappe stop to watch the Posseidon depart and then after catching up with Takis at the leather shop we headed round to Hirani and a beer stop at Odyseus where we discussed the Greek economy with the wonderful Manolis.
Then we headed over to Nimborio but alas the shack by the small beach has not yet opened so without a beer stop we headed straight to the taverna where some well known faces were already indulging in the superb food. We went for the small fish, tuna salad, Greek salad and tzatziki and with two kilo of retsina (it was a long walk !) and water we paid the lovely Panagiota €37 and headed back by the route that goes up to the church, past the cemetery and down into the town square.
A beer stop at the Corner Bar and a chat with Giorgo and then up the Kali and home.
After our evening game of crib in The Secret Garden at the bottom of the steps leading up to Anastasia's we headed for Yianis where there was a great deal of excitement over a game of basketball on the TV.
To complete the trio of restaurants in Chorio (Windmills not yet open) we had dinner in Zylygos where Lefteris looks even younger than he did last year. A mezes of lamb & lemon potatoes, green beans, chicken with prunes, liver, baked aubergine with feta, feta in sesame with honey and meatballs with retsina and water came to €67. A sumptuous piece of cake topped with coconut came as a complimentary sweet. The cooking at Zylygos is once again top notch.
And so to bed.
(We have included prices in these first few posts to give would-be visitors an idea of cost for 4 people)
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby silverfox » 16 May 2015, 11:54

Hi D and E

Many thanks for these updates. Although we are experienced Greek Island visitors, it will be our first time on Symi, so we are loving the information given in each post.

Looks like our kind of place although i'm not sure we will be able to eat as much!
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 17 May 2015, 08:57

Saturday and the boy's bread run was via the windmills with a small break sitting on one of the benches looking down into the port - a view never to tire of.
After breakfast we headed down to Pedi via the boatyard. The new construction of what looks like holiday apartments opposite is coming along. Tolis taverna is not yet open but George is ferrying people back and forth to St.Nicks. A beer stop at Katsaris and then a walk round to the small church was followed by the walk back up to Chorio where we had a light lunch of toasted sandwiches and the excellent chicken salad at Manteios Brasserie. As is often the case on Symi lunch lasted till gone 3pm so a short siesta was called for.
After the evening game of crib and a retsina at the apartment we headed for the pre-dinner ouzos & retsinas at Yianis. Our intention was to head down to Yialos but thankfully Justine (the ex-Olympic Rep) advised us that the last run of the bus is currently 9pm from Yialos up to Chorio and as we know taxis can be a bit hit and miss at this time of the year. So that persuaded us to head to Giorgios where we had a mezes of calamari, green beans, cheese balls, moussaka, beef in Metaxa, bourataki (of course !), and garlic mushrooms. Totally splendid.
Being relatively early we left Giorgios to cater for what looked like a Name Day celebration and returned to the apartment for coffee, chocolate and a further game of crib.
And then to bed.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 19 May 2015, 08:40

Sunday and no bread in Chorio as the bakery doesn't open so it was down the Kali to Yialos and the baker on the corner over the bridge and a return journey up the school steps for the boys.
The plan was St.Nicks but as we all know plans often change on Symi and so that became "avrio" and we headed down to the port via one of the myriad of steps that connect with the Kali Strata.
At our regular frappe and wifi stop we watched the first of Loukas & Irini's water taxis coming from the Hirani boatyard round to its regular mooring. It was being cleaned down and fuelled so perhaps will be in service on Monday.
A walk round to the Stellar Bar and then to TzaTi for the fantastically fresh bruschetta lunch - tomato & oregano and prosciutto & mozzarella with tzatziki and olives as an accompaniment; with some white wine in the most perfect of settings, provided for the perfect Sunday lunch.
A meander back along the harbour side and a pre-Kali climb beer stop and another day disappeared somewhere ! Climbed the Kali and D&P made the sacrifice of waiting for the supermarket to reopen - by having a beer in Yiannis.
Showered and changed and the crib tournament continued in The Secret Garden with the girls taking a 3-2 lead. Walk up to Yiannis for the pre-dinner ouzos and retsinas and then a second visit to Zylygos. Dinner was a mezes of meatballs in tomato sauce, beetroot & skadalia, liver, imam (beautifully baked aubergine with sweet onions - a big favourite), baked aubergine with feta and feta encrusted in sesame with drizzled honey. A lovely semolina cake was a complimentary sweet.
And after making "firm" plans to go to St.Nicks it was time for bed.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 19 May 2015, 08:57

As planned the previous night Monday saw an early bread run and we were breakfasted and on the Pedi Road by 09:15 for George's first "sailing" to St.Nicks. When we arrived at the supermarket beside the jetty in Pedi there was no sign of George which was a first in our memory. It turns out that either there wasn't enough business yet and / or his boat was "ill". In any case Michaelis, his brother and who runs the taverna at St.Nicholas, ferried visitors over in his small boat and between that and the intrepid walkers there was a decent crowd at what we regard as the best beach on the island.
The sea was a wee bit chilly but we soon acclimatised. As is usual at this time of year the taverna has only a limited menu so lunch was beautiful sardines, Greek salad, a bacon, cheese and tomato omelette and some tzatziki.
After returning at around 5pm it was shower and change and down the steps to The Secret Garden for the crib tournament where the boys turned things around and now lead 4-3.
Then to Yannis and then to Zoe's for a mezes of beans gigantes, bouryadi, meatballs in tomato sauce, the best beef stifado on the island (in D's opinion), beetroot & skadalia and courgette balls. Complimentary retsina to wash down apples dusted with cinnamon ended another superb dinner.
Thanks go to friends from Wrexham for returning our woboba ball which D left on St.Nicks.
And so to bed.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 20 May 2015, 08:16

Tuesday and after a slightly later bread run and breakfast we sauntered over to Manteios for frappe and to post onto the SymiChat site. It was clearly going to be a hot day.
We then walked through the back streets of Chorio for an hour or two which is always something we enjoy doing. Of course we hit the occasional dead end but seeing some of the ancient walkways and tunnels is a joy. A carefully selected, well lucky to be truthful, route returned us to Yannis for a very welcome cold beer stop before we headed down the Kali for a gyros lunch by the port - always excellent value.
Before we knew where we were it was 3pm so P&H headed back up and with there being no 3pm bus they jumped in a taxi. E wandered the shops whilst D went to the Corner Cafe for a beer and chat with Giorgios - one of the sons of the family that runs the cafe.
As we had decided to eat "down" the crib tournament was suspended for the evening and we headed for Yiannis for the ouzo / retsina stop and then down the Kali again. E&H had a look round the shops and D&P headed for Elpidas, saying a farewell to S&L in Pachos as they head home on Wednesday.
Elpidas was nice and busy with her son making an excellent host. There was also a brilliant photographer on hand who kindly took a group photo - thank you Kojak. So after a couple of ouzos and retsinas we headed for Trata where the cooking is fabulous. A mezes of stuffed mushrooms (unanimously a hit), tuna salad, horta (a spinach type veg), pork in honey, bouryadi , stuffed tomatoes and imam was truly amazing and everyone should visit this restaurant at least once when on Symi. A complimentary cheesecake was the perfect end to a perfect dinner.
As the bus is currently only running till 9pm we had booked a taxi for 10:30 and it was good to see several taxis at the rank.
So after a brisk drive up it was off to bed with a plan to go round the island on the Poseidon the next day.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby Gemma1 » 20 May 2015, 23:17

Really enjoying your reports, as always, though sorry to hear about the changes at Giorgios.

I didn't realise that Justine is no longer the Symi rep, hopefully I'll have chance to catch up with her in the Sunrise in September. Looking forward to reading about more of your delicious meals :D
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 21 May 2015, 08:42

Thanks Gemma.
Justine told us she was starting work in The Olive Tree yesterday so there's a nice meeting place.
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Re: If it's May .....

Postby D and E » 21 May 2015, 08:43

Wednesday and it's change-over day so the plan was to go round the island on the Poseidon but we woke to clouds over the Vigla which can indicate weather issues.
Anyway the bread run and breakfast was the usual routine and after much discussion we unanimously agreed to postpone Poseidon to later in the week but we still headed for Yialos and had our usual frappe and wifi stop.
The water taxis are still not operating - we believe that licences are the issue. The boats are there as is Konstantinos but no service - maybe avrio.
We enquire at Symi Tours about the advertised trip to Tolis but are told that the taverna has yet to open - maybe avrio.
So as E&H have a wander round the shops D&P head for a beer stop at Elpidas and use the ATM at the bank next door. Greece still solvent :-)
A walk round Hirani where we meet Frank (Taxiarchis) who is doing one or two final bits and pieces before launching his boat back into the water tomorrow.
We head up to the church and down and back into Nos Beach for lunch. Dimitris is in full flow directing building operations - what he has done over the years is quite remarkable. The wonderful Natasha is directing "front of house". The same cook is in the kitchen so we know everything is going to be good. So lunch of Greek salad, kalimari, whitebait and beetroot with skadalia is partaken with the obligatory tossing of unused bread into the sea to feed the fish. That superb semolina cake with maple syrup is provided as a complimentary sweet.
Back round the port and up the Kali without a beer stop en route persuaded D&P to visit Yannis whilst the girls have a siesta.
We headed to Manteios for the crib tournament as we were a bit early for The Secret Garden. The wind is still blowing and there have been clouds, sometime dark, coming over all day but no rain. A single game is played as the cards are blowing about and the boys take a 5-3 lead. We then head forYiannis for the ouzo and retsina and H moves onto a finely made G&T.
There are some purchases made from the small boutique opposite The Rainbow Bar before we head for Giorgios and yet another top notch mezes of tuna fritters, imam, bourataki, Symi lamb, moussaka, meatballs in tomato sauce and grilled garlic mushrooms.
A complimentary mastika and an unexpected retsina - efheristo Michaelis - ended another wonderful meal.
And with plans to walk to Nimborio again the next day it was off to bed.
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