Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Chat about anything to do with the island of Symi

Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 06 Jun 2023, 16:14

(title courtesy of music loving E)

Saturday to Monday

We left Sými mid October 2019 in the knowledge that we were booked to return the following May and blissfully ignorant to what lay ahead. 2020 brought us all the pandemic and with some restrictions continuing into 2021 we were torn but decided to delay a further 12 months. If only we had known !

In March of 2022 D suffered a double pulmonary embolism in a very dramatic fashion and the scans for the clot discovered a tumour on his kidney. NHS Wales were absolutely superb and by July he had had surgery and whilst given the all clear the consultants recommended we delay Symi, that he had told them all about endlessly :D until 2023 which takes us to now.

EasyJet were superb with carrying a credit for the flights and once we had sorted that we had to decide where to stay - port or village. History indicates that our May / June visit is normally “up” and Sept / Oct is “down” so why tamper with fate. The place we have stayed most often during our visits “up” is Anastasia’s so we made contact and sorted all that out through email with the ever helpful P.

With uncertainty over trains and having replaced the Smart car, with all its limitations, with a Fiat500 we set off on our adventure on Saturday, after getting Zoë the pussycat into her holiday home at the cattery, and clearing the kitchen as it is being re-tiled and new work tops installed in our absence.

We decided to split the journey to Gatwick with a Cardiff stopover and had a night in the Holiday Inn.

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Cardiff


We had tapas in the excellent Bar44 just across the road from the hotel. The chicken with hazelnuts in a Sherry sauce was the standout dish amongst scallops in a garlic crumb, ox cheeks in an intensely meaty sauce, lightly fried cod, patatas bravas, and a pleasant mushroom dish.

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Bar44 Cardiff


After a full Welsh breakfast from the buffet we headed along a relatively quiet M4, M3 and joined a very busy M25 but still reached Gatwick around 2:30. We had decided to have a hassle free return to Sými so returned to our favourite - the Sofitel at North Terminal. We booked Meet & Greet parking through EasyJet/ Holiday Extras. So easy to just drive into the Sofitel car park, follow the very clear signage, unload and leave the keys at the parking reception area. A short walk round to the front of the hotel and check in.

What to do on a Sunday afternoon in Gatwick airport ? First of all we took the 2 minute walk to re-familiarise ourselves with the EasyJet bag drop and check-in. D doesn’t like surprises and wanted to make sure things hadn’t changed. Then we took the shuttle monorail to South Terminal just to see what was occurring there - not much :-) Took the monorail back and settled down in La Terrace bar of the hotel for our complimentary drink. That dry white wine prompted us to have a glass of champagne (E) and a rhubarb cosmopolitan (D - get him) and then another glass of fizz with D having a more subdued G&T before heading to the room to sort out our bags and get changed for dinner.

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Sofitel Cocktail Hour


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The People We Meet - Starstruck


Being able to check bags in the night before is so handy. However our first attempt was thwarted by queues for late evening flights but when we returned at 8pm we went through the self service bag drop with ease and with the help of a very pleasant EasyJet gentleman. We then returned to the hotel and had a pre dinner glass of champagne each and returned to the excellent Thai restaurant. The Brasserie menu has certainly gone mainstream which does make it more affordable and the place was busy. One regret is that the mezzanine cocktail bar is no more :'( .

The Thai remains as good as ever and E followed a shared platter of chicken satay, spare rib, prawn toast, edamame beans, and tempura prawns with chicken in black bean sauce, whilst D had the roast duck red Thai curry and we shared noodles and pak choi washed down with a bottle of Singha beer. We were tucked up by 10pm.

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Thai Sharing Plater


D had looked at the departures for the following morning and whilst our EasyJet 5:25 topped the list the number of other flights around this time suggested that we could experience a busy security area. D therefore set the alarm for 3am and we headed straight for departures and were ahead of the masses and were through quite a smooth process by 03:30 and in Starbucks for a hit of caffeine to get us going. We sat and watched the Departures Board as the Gatwick population grew and grew and recognised that the precautionary early start was quite wise.

The flight came up as being delayed to 6am and that provided time to start this blog and download the Blue Star boarding passes for later in the day - another nice innovation that avoids having to go to the office. It wasn’t long before we had a gate and headed down. We were boarded and finally took to the air at 6:30am.

Is 7am too early to have a breakfast of G&T, wine and Pringles ? Not when you are heading to paradise.

The flight took about three and half hours and we touched down in a sunny Diagoras that was a relief having watched the weather forecast over the previous few days. No longer able to go through the EU channel :evil: we had to wait to have our passports stamped and by that time the luggage was waiting for us.

There were plenty of taxis and we hopped into one driven by a guy from Sými so that allowed us to exchange tales and before we knew it we were sitting in the Taverna Moupáyio just opposite the entrance to Akandia port. The cost of the taxi was €29.

(We will include some prices throughout the blog this time just in light of the high rates of inflation in the UK and to keep potential Sými visitors informed)

Taverna Moupáyio has been a favourite stop ever since a visit with Olympic, years ago, dropped us off there. The food is excellent. Having only had a liquid breakfast (with Pringles) we decided on a light lunch. The waitress excused her lack of English when in fact it was our lack of Greek that was the real issue. So an order of beetroot salad, tuna salad and roasted pepper with feta resulted in a lovely fresh tomato and aubergine salad, superb tuna ceviche (that they only charged the tuna salad price of €4.50 for) and the roasted pepper with feta. With a large bottle of water, an ouzo with ice and a very acceptable small bottle of retsina the whole bill came to €36 which was very similar to our last visit. And the complimentary panacotta was as wobbly as you could wish for.

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Light Lunch


Around 3pm we walked to the port cafe and had a frappe and the Diagoras ferry docked around 3:45 for its 5pm sailing. We boarded and before long took a stroll to the top deck to enjoy the feeling of return to this place that means so much to us. Was it the sea breeze that caused the moistness in D’s eyes ?

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Paradise

Konstantinos was waiting with a bear-hug and his new luxury taxi to run us up to the village hotel and then the familiar walk along to meet his mum, Anastasia, and an extra special welcome. We are in our favourite room with the slightly secluded and generous balcony looking up to the Vigla.

There have been a lot of improvements made to the property including very swish new windows and doors, WiFi and a double bed !

It didn’t take us long to freshen up and head to the Rainbow. Anastasia was out for a short walk with her husband Sortiris (aka Sam) and he added to our earlier welcome. Then it was Yannis turn to hug us and with “our seats” being available the usual ouzo and retsina appeared without a word being spoken. We are “home”.

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Home


The Kali Strata was quite busy and before long our good friend J appeared. It was lovely to have a drink and a catch up. Perhaps Yannis is protecting his customers or maybe the claims back in the UK that there is rampant inflation everywhere is exaggerated but our drinks cost no more than they did during our last visit.

The tradition of first night continued with dinner in George & Maria’s. A mezes of the mushrooms in red wine, the green beans that are slowly cooked in a light tomato sauce with hints of garlic and pieces of potato, a beetroot salad and the kefedes with the usual accompaniments (water, bread and restsina) was as good as ever and again the price at €36 did not seem any higher than 2019.

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Green Beans


The 3am start to the day was catching up with us quickly so we said Kali Nichta and walked back under a bright, almost full moon, with the dots of lights flickering across Chorio as though we had never been away.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby silverfox » 06 Jun 2023, 17:02

I'am so happy for you that you are back in your "paradise".

I have been checking all day for this wonderful start to your time on Symi.

Just enjoy every minute and thanks for your wise words and fantastic pictures.

I feel full already and we are only on day one! :D :D :D
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 07 Jun 2023, 07:18

Tuesday

A dose of aircon and the new bed provided a great nights sleep. D was wakened by the early morning glow coming up from Pedi. E could sleep through an earthquake. He therefore unpacked, finalised the draft of the blog and got the pictures ready. It’s so handy having WiFi on the premises.

As the village bells struck 7 it was of course 07:05 :D and as there was still no sign of E waking D headed for an early morning walk to Pedi. Down by the boatyard, along to the new cafe at Kamares where the bus turns and back up with clear blue skies and the sun on his back.

The unseasonal May and the rain that Sými had the weekend before we arrived has made the air very clear and the views to the mountains of Turkey are the clearest we have seen. The bougainvillaea and other plants have flourished and the road from the port up to the village is awash with colour.

Down in Pedi George taxi boat was setting up for the day and the new Coral boat hire had a couple of couples setting out. D really fancies that but E is certain it would end in disaster so we will just watch. The supermarket on the corner opposite the jetty is now a cafe.

E finally woke and edited the blog and whilst she was getting ready D started to post only to have the wifi drop out. His Greek pronunciation of malaka has certainly improved.

We then walked down past the school into Yialos and had a frappe in Cafe Aiglios (€7 for two). Just as we sat down the N half of N&J spotted us and there were warm hugs. After coffee we walked around the back streets, saying our yassas and kalimerras to all the people who make us feel so welcome. There are some new shops and there is now a bank next door to Pachos. It was all quite busy and we counted 10 day boats in total. Hopefully they all brought their wallets & purses.

Takis and Helena were in fine form as we stopped for a catch-up and E was quite impressed with some new colours in the handbag line :o

We landed in Elpida’s and the great lady was there herself. A couple of Mythos and a shared half kilo of retsina was accompanied by the fantastic mezes of tuna salad, a pea salad, small cheese pies, chicken curry, cheese, salami, tomatoes, cucumber, olives that made for a wonderful, if unplanned, lunch.

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Elpida’s


We walked as far as Hirani. Vaporetta nor Tza Tzi are open for business yet but we could see Tholos in the distance doing good trade.

D tried to use the ATM but there seemed to be a problem with both the one near Elpida’s and the new one beside Pachos and he said he would try again avrio.

We were slightly early for the 4pm bus (now a nice round €2) so we stopped for a drink in Alegritos where you now get two Dimitris for the price of one. We caught up on Dimitris’ big news and then headed up on the bus and back to the apartment where we both dozed for half an hour or so. It’s all very exhausting :-)

Then at 5pm we headed to Sortiris Supermarket where our normal basket of provisions did not appear to cost anymore than our last visit “up”.

As E started to get ready D sat out writing the blog as the sun moved over the roofs of the surrounding houses and cast shadows on the Vigla.

It was then Rainbow Time and S&L came from next door to welcome us. So good to see them in such fine fettle. Due to “our seats” having just been vacated we sat at another table to give Yannis time to clear up. That would have caused a misalignment of the planets in the universe :) so the empties were cleared in double quick time and we were escorted to our usual table. These small gentle gestures are all part of the charm of Sými that just makes the heart grow fonder.

After our usual we headed to Zoe’s where Nikos welcomed us and Zoë was upstairs looking after her guests. The food was five star all the way starting with the imam that reminded us of Lefteris in its heyday. The sweet onions oven baked on aubergine was fabulous. We accompanied that with a creamy tuna salad. The serving plates for both dishes hardly required washing as our bread had done the necessary. We followed that with a firm favourite of moussaka and E had the soutzoukakia that were just so flavoursome and served with that lovely nutty rice. A complimentary glass of retsina and a semolina cake that E is desperate to get the recipe for ended a memorable meal. This was Zoe at her very best and there is still the Sými lamb, Stifado and Chicken in Orange to have. So many dinners - so few nights.

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Tuna Salad & Imam

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Moussaka

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Soutzoukakia


As we were leaving Zoe’s aunt who helps in the kitchen came out and whilst she speaks no English at all she always makes it very clear how pleased she is to see us. We then walked down past Scena where it was film night and E decided to do some shadow “art” on the walls of the church.

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E’s Shadow Art


And then it was bed at around 11:30 which is quite late for us.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby silverfox » 07 Jun 2023, 12:47

You are already settled in as we follow every step.

The mention of Chicken in Orange at Zoes just makes my mouth water. :)
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 08 Jun 2023, 14:31

Wednesday

D decided that his morning walk would be down into Yialos to see if the ATMs that had played up the day before were now behaving themselves. He set off around 6:30 and went down a very quiet Kali Strata. The cafes around the harbour were being got ready for the day. Several guys were having their coffee in Pachos and Takis was putting out his stock of beautiful leather goods as D headed to the clock tower.

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Early Morning Kali Strata


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Sými Awakens


On the way back he went to the ATM near Elpida’s and it coughed out some food and drink vouchers, charging €2.50 for the privilege. Then there was bread to buy at the bakers by the bridge. €1.50 for a large bread that was hot out of the wood fired oven - delicious.

D passed the Sebeco that was getting ready for its first sailing over to Rodos and said a fond farewell to one of our Sými friends. And then it was up the main road with the stunning views down into the harbour. Early morning is a good time to do this walk as the road is still in shade until you arrive in the village. Cutting down from the windmills he was back in the apartment by 7:30 having coffee out on the balcony.

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Possibly The Best View In The World


Having bought provisions the previous day E had our usual breakfast of yoghurt with a teaspoon of jam and fresh pear, followed by bread cheese and ham with coffee, on the table of the balcony around 09:00.

Sitting having breakfast, gazing up to the Vigla and deciding what we “might” do for the day is a joy. So many options but we need to visit Tholos as old school friends of E are in Lindos and are coming over tomorrow for their first ever visit to Sými.

We walked down the Kali Strata and went directly to Cafe Aiglios for the morning frappe. We then walked around the square to Harani and bumped into Katholiki of Odysseus on our way (the restaurant should be opening over the next week or so). We booked a table for 2 in Tholos on Sunday night so that’s another evening taken care of. We walked back past Cafe Carnagio, which is another lunch venue that we might visit, and took a seat on the jetty of the Nireus Hotel and had a couple of small beers (€7). We started off alone and then it started to fill and there was a lot of frivolity in the sea next to the jetty with day visitors enjoying the location.

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Nireus


Time just flew and we walked back and had a drink in what we used to call Young Yannis bar. His brother Pavlos now runs it as Yannis has been away with his family for many years. Pavlos is a fountain of local knowledge and before we knew it, it was 3pm. We thought bus and whilst sitting there E asked the obvious question - is there a 3pm bus and of course the reason we were sat alone at the stop was that 3pm is siesta time - doh ! Thankfully there were a couple of taxis and we were whisked up to the Village Hotel for the princely sum of €5.

We relaxed in the apartment for a couple of hours and planned Rainbow Time for a tad earlier than usual and head down for dinner. There was a good crowd of regulars still in Yannis when we arrived plus others so he was a busy boy. As happens plans change and we decided to try the new Kali Strata restaurant (used to be the Olive Tree).

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Kali Strata Restaurant


We were given a warm welcome by the owners and shown to a good table looking out to sea. The waiting staff look very smart in their black jackets and the whole feeling of the place is one of an up-market restaurant. However the menu is varied and caters for all tastes with prices ranging from circa. €10 for moussaka to €90 for the lobster linguini. There is a good wine list.

We ordered the cod and the fried feta served with a fig jam to start. The feta came as three cubes fried in a light breadcrumb coating and the sweetness of the jam went perfectly with the saltiness of the feta. The cod had been replaced with a local fish that was described as shark-like. It was prepared in a light batter and fell off the bone. It came with a mild skordalia and as an introduction to this new restaurant things bode well.

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Feta Cheese


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Fish Starter


E chose the sea bass that came on a bed of lightly creamed horta. The skin was perfectly crispy whilst the flesh of the fish melted in the mouth. This was a large whole fillet that demonstrated skilful cooking. Pasta-head D went with the seafood linguini that came in a flavoursome fish bisque with two large juice prawns shelled and deveined, clams and mussels and was given a huge thumbs up.

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Sea Bass


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Seafood Linguini


A small portion of complimentary honey drizzle cake ended an excellent dinner. This restaurant would not be out of place on a UK High Street and with a carafe of retsina, water and toasted bread the bill came to €72. We estimate that an equivalent meal of this standard back in the UK would cost around £100.

It is great that the village now has three restaurants that range from the traditional cooking of George & Maria’s and Zoe’s to what the Kali Strata has to offer. We will certainly be returning before this visit is over.

We walked home under skies that were becoming cloudier and were in the land of nod by around 11pm.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 09 Jun 2023, 07:15

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Sými
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby Pollychops » 09 Jun 2023, 10:00

Great to hear you are both back and sound very well. As always fantastic reporting and imagery. We are back this year in Sept for the first since Sept 19 and looking forward to returning once again. Keep it coming and enjoy your return.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 09 Jun 2023, 15:24

Thursday - Day 3

Those clouds that had blighted the moon the previous night were there to greet us as we awoke and despite heroic efforts by the sun the day remained slightly cloudy until around 4pm when the battle was won and blue skies returned triumphant.

The day was planned as E’s school chums were coming over from Rodos but how they were arriving we did not know. They had texted saying they would arrive around 10am.

D headed out for his morning walk around 06:30 and headed up the hill out of Chorio until he came to a left turn for Ay. Mapíva. This was a new route for him which he followed for quite a distance passing many a small holding where goats and sheep were scratching a living from the rocky enclosures. Having walked for about 45 minutes and knowing we had to be in Yialos by 10am he turned back but captured some dramatic shots down the Pedi Valley on the way. From our balcony we can make out the path and what looks like a monastery that we assume is the end point, and if time allows he may try and reach that. He was back by 08:00.

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Pedi Valley Early Morning


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View from Path to Ay Mapíva

After the usual breakfast and editing of the blog with some photo hiccups it was time to set off down the school steps to meet with M&E. We waited at the bottom of the steps to see if we could spot any boat coming in but soon made our way to Cafe Aiglios for the daily frappe. We then received a text saying they were on the Symi Dreams King Saron and would be in about 10:30. This boat docks at the clock tower each day so E went round to greet them and escort them to “Comfy Chairs” where we moved on from frappe to something a bit stronger.

After learning all about Lindos where they are staying close to, E took them around the shops of Sými and D was sent :D to the Stella Bar where he caught up with Vasilis and heard all about the COVID years and how last year had been very busy.

The girls soon appeared bearing carriers (which included a Takis soft calf leather handbag) and we went to Elpida’s and had the €20 mezes that was a very generous serving for the four of us with a selection of cheeses and salami, Parma ham, breadsticks, olives, fig jam, and small plates of roast chicken, beans gigantes, peas salad and green beans. Before long it was the 2pm departure as King Saron returns via Panormitis and we were pleased that our friends would see that part of the island. A very pleasant few hours.

We sauntered back round the harbour and had a drink in Alegrito before jumping in the luxurious Mercedes taxi again.

Back in the apartment D checked the treasury and decided a visit to the ATM would provide flexibility for the following day so at 16:35 he believed he could get down the Kali Strata, get to the ATM and catch the 17:00 bus back. E believed he would miss the bus and end up having an ouzo somewhere :D D hit the Kali like a local and despite looking like a puddle by the time he reached the harbour, got money from the ATM in the foyer of the bank beside Pachos, and was sat beside the Sebeco waiting for the 17:00 bus.

Having had a good lunch we decided to stay “up” and after Rainbow Time we went into a very busy George and Maria’s where many Greek families were enjoying themselves. The 18 month old girl at the table opposite was definitely a star in the making - a real little charmer!

We decided to go light as D claims that those infamous Sými Shorts Fairies still visit at night, despite his best efforts and early morning walks, as the morning shorts are always that wee bit tighter. We therefore ordered three plates - the peppers stuffed with feta, courgette fritters and as the moussaka had run out we had papoutsakia that came with just a few home made chips. The peppers did not appear to have been oven-baked as we like them but they were perfectly acceptable. The courgette fritters were as light as a feather and the papoutsakia was a stand out dish. With bread, water and retsina - €30. Quality dining on Sými does not have to break the bank.

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Peppers Stuffed With Feta

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Courgette Fritters

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Papoutsakia

We walked the once again familiar route with clear skies and the moon illuminating the Pedi Valley and were asleep before 11pm. As that has been three “port days” in a row tomorrow could be something different ……. but not too different.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby silverfox » 09 Jun 2023, 16:25

Great blog as usual so thanks to you both.

The Courgette fritters look wonderful and we have plants just starting to fruit so they will be on the list to make sooner rather than later. :)
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 10 Jun 2023, 07:16

“Live” from Sými this Saturday morning - the views from the breakfast table.

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Looking Inland


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Looking Out To Sea
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 10 Jun 2023, 07:30

Friday - Day 4

D was up at 6 and reported that the Vigla was shrouded in mist. That illicited a snore from E. So after delivering the obligatory cup of tea he headed out. By 6:30 the sun had already taken care of the mist and there was a lovely freshness to the air. D headed through the square in Chorio and along the road that provides stunning views down into the harbour.

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The Morning Commute


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Looking From Chorio Into Yialos


He then went through the maze of back streets in the upper part of Chorio that any visitor should really do. Seeing how small some of the passageways are and thinking of how many generations have walked over the same stone paths is very poignant. He navigated his way down to get a small bread (60 cents) from the bakery in Chorio and was home by 07:30. His Fitbit doesn’t know what has hit it.

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The Passageways of Chorio


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Pedi From Upper Chorio


Blue skies, sun and heat made the decision for us. We headed down the Pedi Road and got George’s boat to St.Nicks. His nephew is working with him, taking the money and helping passengers on and off the boat. Alas he told us that George’s brother, his father, who operated the other boat at busy periods passed away earlier this year.

We were the only two people on the 10am sailing and the crystal clear waters of St.Nicks looked so inviting. The beach was quiet at that time and we got our favourite spot on the far side where we believe our Welsh friends G&D had been a couple of weeks earlier. We had a frappe in the beach bar area (€7). There is a second area now that looks as though it might be an evening venue. We then took a couple of small bottles of Alpha beer (€8) back to our sun-bed (€5 each) and D finished his first novel of the visit - Our Man In Havana which he said was very amusing.

Thankfully St.Nicks haven’t followed the Pedi and Ag. Marina trend of luxury sun beds at luxury prices. I am sure we will be trying these innovations in due course and will see if they are true value for money.

After a swim in water that wasn’t as chilly as we thought it might be at this time of year it was lunchtime. The larger dining area certainly helps and the wonderful family owners do a great job over the lunch service. We had our first Greek salad of the visit with some tzatziki and a beautifully grilled whole squid. We have always loved the food at St.Nicks and it remains our favourite beach. We will have a least one if not two more visits.

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Greek Salad at St.Nicks


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Grilled Calamari at St.Nicks


After a bit of sun it was time to pack up and return on the 4pm boat along with many others who decided not to wait another hour for the last return journey of the day. We walked past a quiet Pedi Beach with its very impressive new sunbed set-up and waited for the bus at the far end. Standing room only on the 4:30 bus.

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St.Nicks Lizzard


After unpacking the beach bag it was time to restock on some provisions from Sotiris supermarket. We only buy about three days of fruit, yoghurt, cheese and ham as even in the fridge these things go off quickly and it is so easy to pop up from the apartment. We even bought some cat food and will leave little piles where we see many a kitten looking quite hungry.

The plan was to have dinner in Yialos, perhaps Trata or Haris. But of course the first port of call of an evening is for an ouzo and retsina - Rainbow Time. When we arrived we were shocked to find no Yannis and N was “in charge” :shock: Yannis had gone over to Rodos for the day. Thankfully we got “our seats” and then within 10 minutes every table was taken. Soon after that Yannis arrived back from Rodos and took over and as the only seat available was opposite us, or maybe he did fancy a chat :D N came over to sit and we enjoyed a long awaited catch up.

Typical of us we sat and had our usual quota (tría) and as it was after 9pm we went to George & Maria’s again. There was some confusion over the availability of tuna salad and mention of stuffed courgette flowers, that E adores, and we somehow ended up with both. However having also order our long time favourite of Bourataki the combination of this with the courgette flowers was very rich. The nicely cooked chicken souvlaki went a long way to balancing the overall meal.

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Tuna Salad

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Courgette Flowers Stuffed With Cheese

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Bourataki


The end of yet another wonderful day on this little rock saw us having our nightly square of chocolate just catching the feint sounds of music from the Secret Garden down the stairs from our apartment.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby Allan » 10 Jun 2023, 15:17

So pleased to read your report on the Kalistrata restaurant D&E I have become something of a fan of the place since it first opened and always thought it was your sort of place I am glad you liked it
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 11 Jun 2023, 07:23

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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 11 Jun 2023, 07:44

Saturday - Day 5

Having had a beach day on Friday we decided that the walk to Nimborio would be a good idea.

D went on the bread run going up the hill to the turning to Sevastis Apartments and then working his way back down to the bakery through the myriad of passageways. One could find a different route every time. He got a large bread as he seemed to think that they don’t open on a Sunday. And he couldn’t resist some apple tarts so we shared these with Anastasia and Sotiris for their morning coffee.

As D returned through Lefteris Kafenion he came upon Lefteris who with the late Lemonia had a superb restaurant in Chorio - the best imam ever. Lefteris explained he is now working in Katsaras in Pedi so we hope to see him again before the visit is over.

We had the usual leisurely breakfast and then walked down the Kali Strata and looking over to the clock tower a large French cruise ship was docked and when we reached Cafe Aiaglios for our morning coffee there was a significant French presence. All good for business.

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Walking Down The Kali Strata


D went off piste from his usual frappe sketo and had an espresso fredo and fresh orange juice. E is now sold on espresso fredos. The same Lefteris was walking by and of course when spotting E he came over and embraced her. We had many a happy night in the restaurant that bared his name.

E wanted to purchase some nail varnish from the chemist and we thought it a good idea to take on some “hydration” before heading to Nimborio so we had a small beer in the cafe bar just beyond the chemist and were greeted by Yannis who remains forever young in what must be his eighties.

We then set off past Iapetos and up the steep hill that follows the ravine. Some of the houses on that road have seen impressive make overs. At the top beside the cemetery we came upon a kitten and her mother who looked like they needed feeding. E had brought some of the dry cat food we had bought the day before and this was gratefully received. Beyond the cemetery several lemon trees have been planted alongside other plants and an impressive vine is developing.

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On The Road To Nimborio - Venison


We soon reached the church of St.George where neither the gate nor the door were locked so D ventured in. This is one of those places where we always stop and reflect on how lucky we have been finding, and being able to return to Sými so many times.

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The View From The Church Of St.George

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The Church of St.George


Walking down the well made track to the road provides excellent views of the bay and the next stop was at the shack which has a name now but we failed to take a pic of it. Anyway it was busy and the mayor and his family were there enjoying the swimming and general conversation - we must learn to understand more Greek. After a beer stop we walked the final leg round to Nimborio and took a seat in the new cafe bar that we watched being slowly constructed in previous years.

It is right next door to the well established restaurant and whilst it might provide competition the two businesses may compliment each other as the cafe bar has more of a snack based menu. We shared a spinach pie with a small bottle of retsina. The menu offered wraps, sandwiches, etc. but D did spot someone on an adjacent table having what looked like an excellent tuna salad. We have added a return visit to sample that to “The Plan”.

Having finished our pie, but still having some retsina left, we were given a small plate of cucumber, tomato and olives. We just love that Greeks never like to see one drinking without something to eat. E only wishes D would not practice this at home :D Then a complimentary plate of apple and water melon was given to every table and to those using the cafe’s sun beds. We were told by an Italian diner from Florence that if spending more than €30 in the cafe the sun beds are free. Not sure the price otherwise and the level of shade from some of the umbrellas might not suit everyone. Overall we were very impressed with the service and the quality of the pie.

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The New Cafe Bar at Nimborio


The taxi boat that services Nimborio was waiting to return at 4 and 5pm so rather than take the healthy option and walk back we had another retsina and ouzo and caught the boat back for €10. It’s a nice way to do Nimborio - walk one way and boat the other.

We were back in Yialos and had been invited for a drink and chat with Debbie who we have known for years. We met in one of the cafes on the square and the next two hours just disappeared - she is such wonderful company. We had to walk briskly to catch the 6pm bus up.

By the way the busses are now on their extended service so no longer is the last bus 10pm. That can be quite tight if dining down at our preferred time of around 8pm.

After Rainbow Time we decided to return to Zoe’s as we know we are heading down on Sunday night. We shared the grilled prawns (4 large crustaceans) with a lovely Marie-rose type sauce. E followed that with the chicken in lemon and orange that was fell off the bone, melt in the mouth gorgeous and D had the Sými lamb that always reminds him of how lamb should really taste. Both dishes came with lovely waxy lemon potatoes. We refused a nightcap but really appreciated the reappearance of that amazing semolina sweet.

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Zoe’s Prawns

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Zoe’s Chicken in Orange and Lemon

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Zoe’s Sými Lamb

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Zoe’s Semolina Sweet



The temptation of the 10pm kick off of the Champions League Final was resisted and we were home by 11pm.

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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby silverfox » 11 Jun 2023, 16:31

The food at Zoe's looks so good. Those Lemon Potatoes! I need to make some soon with Lamb Chops me thinks.You are eating so much in the village which is great. Secret Garden, Scena next?

Keep the escapades and pictures coming please! :D
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 12 Jun 2023, 07:36

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07:45 Sebeco to Rodos


A photo from today’s (Monday) early morning walk.

Heading out so the super exciting Sunday episode :mrgreen: of the blog will follow this evening.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 12 Jun 2023, 07:39

silverfox wrote:The food at Zoe's looks so good. Those Lemon Potatoes! I need to make some soon with Lamb Chops me thinks.You are eating so much in the village which is great. Secret Garden, Scena next?

Keep the escapades and pictures coming please! :D


Hi Silverfox - so glad you are enjoying the blog and you are so right - Zoe is on top form.
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 12 Jun 2023, 17:17

Further apologies as today (Monday) we have been to Marathounda and then got waylaid in the port and only now have got back to the apartment and of course it’s Rainbow Time. Tomorrow will see a double dose - promise.

In the meantime here are the Bears on holiday.

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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby silverfox » 12 Jun 2023, 22:41

No pressure to blog. You need to enjoy the moments too! :D
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Re: Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

Postby D and E » 13 Jun 2023, 05:11

Sunday - Day 6

The bells chime out the early morning call to prayer. D has decided to take the day of rest literally and postpone the early morning walk for a day. Instead he is starting his second book of the visit and it’s John Grisham’s first ever novel. No doubt he will end up reading the entire works on his Kindle.

Over breakfast we decided to carry on the theme of rest and decided to have a lazy day in Pedi. It was a toss up between the main road and the track through the valley and the main road won so down we trod.

As the bar area of Katsaras hasn’t any of its shading in place yet we went straight to one of the new sun beds. In essence there are now three classes of bed that somehow doesn’t sit right with us. It’s less about the pricing as the owners have made a decision to invest and they need to make a living but having people so close together yet segregated like this does make us uncomfortable.

Down at the end towards the Pedi Beach Hotel are the standard normal sun beds. Then along the front of the beach are solid wood contraptions with quite a thick mattress. Then there are the the super sun beds housed in an open wooden construction that have the thickest mattresses we have ever seen and you appear to get a towel thrown in.

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The “Super” Sun Beds


We paid the ever attentive Abi €15 for each sun bed and that gets you a bottle of water in an ice bucket and a very nice plate of fruit and of course table service. We had a couple of frappes and four small beers and with a tip for Abi it came to €55.

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The Fruit Plate


We estimate that the normal sun beds had a 75% occupancy, the mid range that we were on about 30% and we didn’t see any of the super duper beds being used at all.

The downside of these luxury sun beds is that you cannot move them !

As is quite usual for a Sunday when we visit, the Katsaras restaurant was doing great trade but we decided to resist and exist on the fruit as we are planned to head down tonight to one of our all time favourite restaurants.

With there being no 3:30 bus and having a table reservation for 8pm we decided to walk back up to the apartment. After the lovely cooling sea breeze on Pedi Beach the walk up the road worked up a good sweat - nice :D

For the second day in a row Anastasia had left a plate in the apartment with these lovely dough fingers that taste of honey and cinnamon and are very addictive with coffee.

We kept up our 100% attendance record at Yannis even though it was only “ena” before we walked down the Kali Strata in glorious sunshine.

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Kali Strata Early Evening


As the ATM limits our CaxtonFx cards to €300 in any 24 hours we have to visit every few days as many businesses appear still to prefer cash transactions although we do see cards being more widely used nowadays. A swift transaction and then to the Nireus Hotel where normally at least once during our visit we sit out on the jetty and treat ourselves to a cocktail and catch that moment when the sun starts to set and bathes beautiful Sými in that golden hue.

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Cocktail Time

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Sun Setting Over Symi


We had the jetty to ourselves but were soon joined by a group of about 30 Portuguese who were on one of those large Turkish gulet charters. All but one of them wanted a G&T which we found amusing for some reason. Anyway they engaged us in conversation and did a great job of “selling” Portugal to us. Having explained our love of Sými the organiser held back as they left and asked us one of the hardest questions that we could face - “where is the best place to eat on Sými ?” How long did he have :)

The question is so difficult to answer as there is so much on offer and each has its strengths.

We then walked the final leg to one of our very favourite restaurants and by the number of people eating there, the favourite of many visitors and Symiots alike. Thankfully we had booked and would recommend booking to anyone who wants to eat in Tholos. We were greeted as though we had never been away and shown to a table on the lower level on the sea - the kind of setting people dream of. D seemed to think the menu was less extensive than before as he searched for his goat liver but there is still a great selection of fish, meat, chicken, pork and traditional Greek cooking.

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A Familiar Pose


Of course it was the large grilled prawns (4) to start with. They come now in full shell and are as big and sweet as ever and we think next time we will save on luxury sunbeds and start with a plate of these each instead :D

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The Prawns Tholos


E followed this with a pork and mushroom dish that was as flavoursome as could be. She had thought she would share the lemon potatoes that came with D’s roasted goat. Think again E - we ordered a side plate of lemon potatoes. The goat fell off the bone and was one substantial portion that almost floored D. Note - almost :D

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Sými Goat Tholos

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Extra Lemon Potatoes - Tholos


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The View From Our Tholos Table


Although the bus now runs from Yialos till 11pm timing was such that we decided to forego the complimentary watermelon, pay the bill, that was lighter than we thought as the retsina was on the house - that Sými generosity again, and head round to the bus stop. As we paid we booked a table for before we leave - this is indeed a great Sými restaurant and would be in our top 3.

Takis must have through there was a fire somewhere as he put away his stock for the night as we marched past at double, possibly treble, “Sými speed”. But we made the 10pm bus with 10 minutes to spare and the ever reliable Lakis whisked us up to the windmills and we walked back through the village stoping for a quick chat with a Sými regular outside the Sunshine Bar.

As readers of our blogs over the years know we are not night owls and as such we have never been able to comment on the night life. But we do learn from others that for visitors who want to while away the wee small hours many bars do remain open.

We were sound asleep by 11pm.
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