Yamas Yialos

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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby Gemma1 » 18 Oct 2019, 08:13

Another great read and dinner at another of my favourites. I love the Dolphin and it's a great place for people watching as well as serving excellent pizzas and pasta. I enjoy watching the local children playing and the delivery driver coming and going with his pizza deliveries.

The views of the harbour from the Irini certainly take some beating and I missed those views the first time I stayed in Chorio - though the view of the Pedi valley is pretty wonderful too :D

Good luck with getting that boat today ;)
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby D and E » 19 Oct 2019, 08:10

Friday - Boat Day

D was up around 7 and knew that if we were to go on a boat, breakfast might be in Cafe Aiglios so he just finished off the blog with the photos and then packed the beach bags.

We did not know if or even when a taxi boat might go out - it’s like that now the island is heading towards its slumbers so we erred on the side of caution and had breakfast just after 9 in Comfy Chairs. The usual frappe, with a shared fresh orange, and a shared ham omelette - perfect.

We then discovered that our luck was in and Lucas & Irini were running one boat and it would be the last of the season. It would stop at St.Nicks and Marathounda so we chose the latter. As it departed at 11am we wandered round to the Clocktower and back to see what was occurring and fill in some time after breakfast.

The Morning Catch

Unbeknown to us that intrepid walker and photographer, Silverfox, had spotted us on the prow of the taxi boat - well D isn’t that hard to spot especially after 9 days on Symi :shock: It was only when E was reviewing Facebook later in the day that we knew the Sheffield paparazzi had caught us :D

Best Seat In The House

There must have been about 20 people on board and 2 got off at a very deserted looking St.Nicks where all the canopies had been taken down and stored inside the Taverna. We could not tell if the Taverna was even open.

From St.Nicks it was direct to Marathounda where the small cafe bar was closed but the Taverna was open. After getting our free sun beds we had a small beer each and then had a swim in the slightly colder but still lovely water.


Unfortunately for the ever efficient waitress at the Taverna everyone seemed to decide to eat at the same time but the team coped brilliantly as they always do. We had our first Greek Salad of the holiday alongside delicious grilled octopus and great courgette fritters with the obligatory goat looking on, who then decided to munch our paper tablecloth.

Greek Salad Marathounda

Courgette Fritters Marathounda

Grilled Octopus Marathounda

Goaty McGoatface Marathounda

We dozed on the sunbed after lunch and it was soon time to pack up and head back to Yialos. We arrived at 16:20 and once we all disembarked, the boat was immediately taken to Hirani boatyard.

Thank You Irini, Luca & Co.

We had a drink in Cafe Aiglios and watched first the Skiadeni and then the Sebeco and finally the Dodecanese Express all depart for Rhodes and the island feels very quiet indeed.

We decided to keep the theme of a different restaurant every night going - can’t see us succeeding as there are at least three revisits that we want to do. Now where would those be ?

Elpida’s has the same magnetic effect that Yiannis does when we are “up” and as we arrived one half of the Taverna was being decked out in helium balloons and birthday related decorations. The great lady herself was front of house chatting to a friend before she headed off for the evening. We took our usual front table and the ever pleasant waitress didn’t even take the order as she now knows us. Our ouzo & retsina came with the usual mezes plate and with spetzofai and a light chicken curry this time.

We had decided to go round and see if Cavos was open and did not want to leave it too late at this time of year as you cannot blame restaurants for shutting up shop if they haven’t seen anyone by say 9pm. So we only had the one in Elpida’s and walked round by the Clocktower and took a sea side table looking over to the ever-busy Tholos and the illuminated church above. We were the only people between the Clocktower and Tholos - that’s how quiet it is now.

Cavos Restaurant

We think it was last year that we thought Cavos had improved immeasurably and it is great to report that it is keeping up these fine standards. Being confirmed prawnaholics we had to have the garlic prawns as a shared starter and this came as six fair sized prawns semi-deshelled in garlic butter with a small salad - wow. The toasted bread is essential to savour the garlic.


Between courses the Blue Star docked opposite and its is so clear to see how this is the island’s lifeline. It made us think again about doing the Athens run to Symi as Allan has described on this forum and James has mentioned several times on the excellent Symi Dream site.

Back to food. E adores chicken with prunes ever since she had it in the days of Zylygos in Chorio and a lovely oven baked piece of chicken on the bone with real potato chips and rice & peas was declared delicious. D was surprised to find that there was still Symi goat on the menu and a good chunk of oven baked goat with a lemon sauce, again with chips and rice & peas almost floored him - note the word “almost” :-) After a complimentary glass of mastika we said our farewells and good winters to the super friendly family who run this excellent restaurant.

Cavos Dinner

We walked back around the port where the birthday party in Elpida’s was just getting going around 9:45pm and E was just in time to catch the new mini-market situated between Manos Fish and the bank by the bridge. She needed to get her life-saving tea bags and milk.

We were home by just after 10pm and as D sat with his nightly square of chocolate out on the balcony listening to the much quieter sounds of Yialos E had a Eureka moment ! D has been mumbling on about the inadequacy of the aircon unit. E decided to do a bit of DIY and opened up a vent and wow - a much cooler room and a much cooler D.

And so another wonderful day was given to us by magical Symi.
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby Gemma1 » 19 Oct 2019, 09:10

Glad you managed to fit in a boat trip before the boats finished for the season :D Those goats at Marathounda must miss the the visitors when the tourist season ends. Just as well they weren't aware that D was going to be eating one of their relatives for dinner :P

Glad that Cavos didn't disappoint as I thoroughly enjoyed my meal there last September and it is a lovely setting - but then there are plenty of lovely settings to chose from on Symi ;) It sounds as though things are really starting to wind down for the winter now - glad the weather is still great :D
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby D and E » 20 Oct 2019, 07:46

Saturday - Diverted to Nos

The secret of an early morning came to D - less ouzo and early to bed - it’s not rocket science :?

He was awake around 6:45 and listened to our neighbour packing as it was his last day.

As there were no provisions in the apartment D made E the obligatory first cup of tea of the day and set off down to Taxas where he bought enough to see us through. Early Saturday is clearly a popular time with locals to do the shopping. D even got nice fresh rye bread from Taxas.

With breakfast finished, the dishes done and the blog posted we took our usual route down through the churchyard to Cafe Aiglios and had just ordered the daily frappe when Silverfox and Liz, who regularly have their coffee there, arrived. It was their last day so we had a chat and said our farewells as they went to do some last minute shopping and we set off to walk over to Pedi.

We did think the Yacht Cafe might be showing the Rugby World Cup as we have watched The Open and Wimbledon there in the past and so it was. That was our first diversion - we are easily diverted. Quite a crowd of English people cheered on their side to victory over Australia. We can see us being there again tomorrow if the Wales game is being shown.

View From The Yacht Cafe

We started to move on and bumped into Frank of Taxiarchis who always used to like a political chat with D so we stood a while with him outside his boat before stopping a few yards up the road for another small beer with “Mr” Yiannis who always charms us with a wave into the popular cafe next door to the pharmacy. A second diversion.

Another Yacht

By now the idea of walking or even bussing over to Pedi was fading and so we decided to walk to Nos and did that non-stop without diversion, hard to believe isn’t it :-) We passed Captain Yannis hard at work on the Poseidon for the second day - sanding down surfaces, painting, varnishing woodwork, etc.

E popped into one shop to check on closing date as we have seen a ceramic house to add to our own collection. This is a main topic of conversation wherever we go - “when will you stay open until ?”

Several shops are closed now and today only the Sebeco and the Skiadeni brought in day visitors and most of them seemed to be people visiting family rather than tourists.

Nos was much quieter than the other day. The sea was lovely and we just shared a cheese & ham toastie and a beer at our sunbed for lunch.

We timed our return with the departure of the Skiadeni and sat on the Nireus jetty with an ouzo & retsina to toast farewell to Silverfox & Liz who we saw waving from the back of the boat. Hopefully they saw us returning that wave.

Farewell Silverfox & Liz

As we walked back there was even more people leaving on the Sebeco and then on the Dodekanisos Express and we wonder if we are the only tourists left :-)

E couldn’t resist an ice cream from Patiserie Nicolas on the way home where we said hi to the girl that has worked there for years. We picked up a 6-pack of water which we hope, with existing stocks, will see us through.

When we returned to our room the departure instructions were under the door and so we now know we will be on the Sebeco on Wednesday at the civilised departure time of 08:00 but that’s still four dinners away !

But that did focus the mind and so we decided where we wanted to go but not necessarily the order we will do them in. That needed more thought over an ouzo & retsina in Cafe Alegrito.

After three ! it was decided we would do the nearest of our return visits and went to the very traditional Trata where we shared their amazing mussels saganaki and balanced the richness of this with D having grilled liver and E having grilled chicken fillet. Both dishes perfectly cooked. Our waiter friend mentioned that he had seen us watching the rugby in the adjoining cafe and asked why D had looked rather subdued - we explained about D being Scottish :-)

Mussels Saganaki at Trata

Grilled Chicken Fillet at Trata

Grilled Liver at Trata

And so we walked back up through the back streets stopping for a quick chat and Kali Nichta to Faye from Tolis and a lovely day of diversions ended on Symi.
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby Thomasdk » 20 Oct 2019, 09:32

Loving your blog and your beautiful photos. Please keep them coming. :)
Looks like you're always having a great stay, I'm very envious but it also motivates me to visit that gorgeous island soon.
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby Gemma1 » 20 Oct 2019, 09:33

Well done making it all the way to Nos without any further diversions :P

You've got your departure instructions early - though at least you know exactly how much time you've got left and how many meals you can fit in our course ;)

Enjoy your last few days and thanks again for being so dedicated and providing us with a great daily read :D
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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby silverfox » 20 Oct 2019, 12:44

Another superb report of a typical day for D&E on Symi.

Loads of beer food and chats with friends.

I puposely didn't read the report from Friday until I was at the airport yesterday, I will do anything to extend that Symi fix!

Looking forward to the few more reports from this wonderful couple before the winter sets in.

PS D&E it's bloody cold back in the UK!

Enjoy your last few days(food).

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Re: Yamas Yialos

Postby D and E » 21 Oct 2019, 07:52

Sunday - Rugby & Pedi

We weren’t late home on Saturday night but neither of us would make the first move even though the bells, the bells, were ringing up from Yialos and down from Chorio.

It was gone 8 before D served E the wake-up cup of tea and we had planned to go and see if the Wales .v. France game was being streamed in the Yacht Cafe with kick-off at 10:15.

So the usual routine, of blog, breakfast & bags and off we went.

The “Arty” Breakfast View

Our Olive Tree Outside The Aapartment

The Yacht Cafe was deserted but as we were about to head over to Comfy Chairs and at least stream the commentary through the App, L of L&B, who we have regularly chatted with over many years on Symi, appeared and somehow got things going. The young man who knows how to stream to the outside TV was called and he arrived and had the whole thing up and running only 4 minutes into the game. And what a nail biter it was with a result that cheered E up immensely and of course D whose adopted country is Wales - just as well as his beloved Scotland weren’t up to it this time around.

After our frappe and a couple of small beers during the match we were a bit early for the 13:00 bus to Pedi so we stopped in Cafe Axinos which used to be Katoi Cafe where the ever present “Mr” Yiannis served us our usual very chilled small beers and despite it being the 20th October you need them as it is like a day in June with temperatures between 25 and 30C. Even the locals are commenting on how good the weather is for this time of year - we count ourselves very lucky. A slight downside is the weather is keeping the flying, biting things going and they still love D and even E has been forced to join the “Bite Club” which is very unusual.

Two day boats berthed whilst we were in Yialos and as we climbed the hill on the bus the Skiadeni was coming in so hopefully the weather is still attracting visitors, and money, onto Symi.

Pedi was quite busy for the time of year but then we have always found it is popular with locals on a Sunday. Abi took the sunbed money and served us an ouzo & retsina with a shared spinach pie. We had been denied this on our earlier visit as it had either run out or had not been made and we had made do with a very good cheese pie, but the Katsaras spinach pie is the real deal.

Wonderful Pedi

Pedi Boats

We swam and lazed until E went for a short walk round to the small church on the way to St.Nicks where she bumped into J&T of the Olive Tree and A who were out for a Sunday stroll.

Side By Side

We all caught the 16:30 bus and we were back in Yialos just as the Sebeco was departing. The not-Lakis bus driver mentioned to us that if we wanted, the Maria Boat would be going out at 10:30 next day for a trip :?:

We came home via Taxas as we have a family of cats to keep feeding and one in particular who is the mother, but whose offspring always push in. We always make sure mum gets her fair share.

Our Adopted Family

And so to the second of our repeat visits.

We first of all went to the ever popular Elpida’s where there was a good crowd and took our usual front facing seats. An impressive yacht was moored outside and it seemed to be serving only a small family who returned with many a shopping bag from the more up-market designer shops, of which there are a handful or so on Symi.

Outside Elpida’s

Our ouzo & retsina arrived with the additional mezes being mussels risotto and that luscious pork dish. The second round of drinks came with chicken, in what tasted like a honey and chilli sauce which was superb, and the lightest of keftedes.

We then walked back past the yacht where they were having trouble getting the motor launch started - don’t know if we could cope with the trials of the super rich :D

We returned to the Dolphin which had a good Sunday crowd of locals in and shared the pizza with salami and the penne with tuna - both perfect. As we sat there finishing our retsina we reflected on the fact that we have only two days to go. We were hoping that 2020 could see us overlap with D’s sister and brother-in-law who, through our love of Symi, now visits when she can. But a text earlier in the day informed us that our respective dates may not be suitable - there is always 2021. E did a speculative search on bookings.com and we saw a very good price for Pedi and so we now have a cancelable booking for last week of May first week of June :shock:

We may only be able to do one visit next year as we want to spend Thanksgiving with D’s sister & b-i-l at their place in Florida but if we are frugal who knows - a “cheeky week” may be possible somewhere along the line.

We walked back round the square at about 10pm quite excited about 2020 already - that’s how this place gets into your blood.
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