Magical Margaritas

[D and E]

Tolis

Thursday - Day 1 on Symi

Normally our first day is spent getting the breakfast essentials from the supermarket and generally chilling out around our usual cafes, bars, tavernas, shops but not this time. There was an opportunity to accompany O&L to Tolis so as we had nothing in for breakfast we headed to the Nireus Hotel where you can walk in and for €6 a head partake of their excellent buffet breakfast. Orange juice, yoghurt, fruit, hams, cheeses, fried eggs, hard boiled eggs, omelette, bacon, chorizo, smoked sausage, coffee, tea, cake, croissant ..... even D didn't try them all. Excellent value and sitting out overlooking the sea - an amazing place to have breakfast.

A short stroll back to Margaritas, pack the beach bags and we head to Tolis. It is only in recent years that we have been visiting this beautiful bay with its shallow access to beautiful water. So after a beer / coffee when we arrived we headed for our first swim and the temperature of the water was perfect. The sun beds are free and the food in the taverna is excellent. We all shared the substantial Daphne salad with its shredded cabbage, apple, honey & balsamic. This was accompanied by tzatziki which was creamy and garlicky; the lightest courgette fritters; a good tuna salad which was less creamy than some and a perfect accompaniment to the tzatziki; and very light and herby meatballs. With cold Alpha beer, retsina and water and including the morning beverages the bill was €75.

Then it was back to the apartment, showered and back out to Elpidas for our nightly ouzo / retsina and the discussion as to where we will eat. After such an "energetic" day we decided to stay close and so headed back towards Margarita's stoping at Odyssia for dinner. Staying round here at Nos we are blessed with two great restaurants and it is a tough call to say which is best - much more dining required to come to a decision.

So after a lovely welcome from the family led my Manolis, and the menu talked through by his superb front of house manageress (and daughter) Katholiki, we decided on the grilled prawns as a shared starter. Having had the same the night before at Tholos we could make a direct comparison. Odyssia's come with a small side salad with a very light lemon dressing and a garlic dip. The prawns are well presented with only the head and tail left on and so there is no need to remove the shell. This only means we got through them twice as quickly but they were simply superb. It is the same chef that has been with Monolis for a few years now and he gets better every year. The outcome of the tasting is that D prefers the Odyssia prawns and E regards both equally. We followed this with tuna (E) which was a substantial piece of fish cooked to absolute perfection when ordered medium rare. D had the amberjack that he raved about the previous year and wasn't disappointed. A meaty white fish that is cooked perfectly. Both dishes came with a very nice baked potato and a marie-rose sauce. With the retsina and a small semolina cake with nuts & honey coming complimentary of the house and Manolis doing the bill we paid €60 which for such quality ingredients and cooking was simply excellent.

And so we walked round the corner under the stars, even a shooting star, and off to bed.

[D and E]

Tolis

[silverfox]

Simply magical!

[D and E]

Mezes in Trata

Friday - Day 2 on Symi

Waking up to another beautiful day - clear blue skies and temperatures of around 30C - we headed to The Nireus for the walk-in breakfast again but in order to void D having to buy new shorts we head to Taxas supermarket and get the coffee, tea, milk, eggs, ham, cheese, yoghurt, honey and dark chocolate - standard Symi shopping list for us.

After all that "exertion" we stop in our regular frappe spot and watch the 11:00 taxi boat head out - there is quite a crowd on board. In fact compared to when we were here in May the island is buzzing but then May was exceptionally quiet.

We then headed back to Margarita's and sitting on our balcony got to work on the photos and the blog. Handy that D's point & shoot Ixus has its own wifi which makes transferring pics to the iPad so easy. He then uses an App to resize the photos for the blog. He uses iCloud for the pics from the phones but gets quite confused as to what is where

Anyway the blog done we decided to have a light lunch of Greek salad, meatballs and tuna salad with water and retsina - €30 - across the road in Nos Beach taverna which was quite full. We grabbed the one table that allows us to feed the fish. They have certainly grown and multiplied since May - must be all that bread we throw in to watch their voracious feeding. This takes us to 15:00 - where do the days go ? So back to read and we both fall asleep but E is first out of the blocks and heads down to an almost deserted Nos for a late afternoon swim. Then we both take a stroll along the Nimborio Road in the late afternoon sun and D heads down one of the paths that takes him to a small beach where he has a swim whilst E returns to Margarita's via the church walk at the back of the apartment.

Showered and in Elpida's for our nightly ouzo and retsina and the first drinks came with pieces of filo cheese pie. The second round of drinks came with ewe's cheese and smoked sausage. Then a very pleasant surprise when our neighbour from Anastasia's in May and her friend, who was celebrating her birthday, came down from Chorio and met us - so good to catch up.

We then headed to Trata for a Mezes of stuffed mushrooms (of course), horta, feta stuffed peppers, liver (which comes as main with rice and chips), and green beans in tomato & garlic. We both agreed we had overdone the ordering and with hindsight would have dropped the stuffed peppers. But with water and retsina we paid €40. We then headed home past quite a crowded Elpidas at got to be just before midnight.

[Gemma1]

Another great read and the breakfast at Nireus sounds excellent value

I think I must be a bit of a wimp as I thought the water at Toli was really cold. Once I was in it was fine but I was gasping with the cold as I climbed down the little ladder

[D and E]

The thing is Gemma that all this eating provides D with quite a thick insulation so he doesn't feel the cold when diving into Symi waters

[D and E]

The Pot of Gold at the Rainbow

Saturday - Day 3 on Symi

Now that we have provisions in the fridge D did his first bread run to the baker beside the bank opposite the small bridge at the harbour. A freshly baked, still warm from the oven, small bread for 40 cents - the perfect start to a day.

E "The Breakfast Chef" had the fruit cut to serve with the yoghurt & honey and the bread sliced with cheese and ham.

We had a kind of plan to get to Pedi and back mid-afternoon as we are heading "up" with our friends O&L for dinner at Zoe's. So we head to our usual frappe stop and watch a busy day boat arrive before climbing the Kali Strat for the first time this visit. At 11:00 it is hot but despite this we took one of the many available variants of walking up and detour onto the school / lazy steps. Then back onto the Kali and arrive in Yannis Rainbow perspiring like good 'uns. Yannis is on the case in seconds and chilled beers arrived with a lovely fresh Mezes of tomato, olives, pickled carrot, gherkin and peppers. Just what is needed on such a hot day. Not satisfied that we had replaced sufficient fluids a further two small beers were necessary before heading to down the Pedi Road at midday.

Pedi was busy with so many of the sun beds taken beside Katsaras. Since May they have made alterations to the bar on the beachside and many people were making use of the new seating area - looked nice. We had bought sausage and cheese & ham pies from the supermarket beside the bus stop as only a light lunch was required ahead of the anticipated feast later in the day. The place was so busy that the overworked guy didn't have time to charge us for sunbeds. The water was perfect and after a swim we headed back over on Lakis's 15:30 standing room only bus - where D shared the back of the bus with one of the most esteemed Symi visitors

As we had headed to the bus stop we stopped to catch up with the couple we had met on the ferry over. They were clearly enjoying their latest visit to the Pedi Beach Hotel where there was a wedding going on - what a backdrop for the photos.

Back in Yoalos with four ships in port there were a lot of people-watching to do from a beer / retsina stop at Elpida's where the drinks came with ewe's cheese, ham, tomato and olives. After watching the St.Nicolas depart and some superb yatchs arriving we headed home to shower and change and set off for our evening out.

We started with an ouzo and retsina at Cafe Alegriko where the accompanying Mezes never fails to astonish us. A freshly cooked smoked sausage with feta, cucumber, and olives was perfect. The plan to catch the 19:00 bus failed so we waited a short time at the taxi rank and were dropped off at the Village Hotel for the short stroll to Yannis which had its usual mix of locals and visitors and there was a real buzz in Chorio. Passing the supermarket we bumped into Neil & James who were heading out - as James said we will find out where in his Symi Dream blog on Monday. After a couple more ouzo / retsina, and E&L visiting the little shop opposite Giorgio's, we headed to Zoe's and received a big warm welcome from Nikos and the wonderful cook.

We ordered a couple of starters between the four of us. The dolmades and the courgette balls. As we are having these a couple who have made two sunbeds on St.Nicks their own in May and September and who we have chatted to for many many years come into the restaurant and it was great to see them again and get their news.

For mains D&E both ordered the legendary beef stiffados whilst O had the chicken with cashew nuts and L had the souzakakia. All perfectly cooked as ever. A complimentary cake ended the usual top quality meal and we even turned down offers of more alcohol Handily Zoe's son was in the restaurant and he drove us home in his taxi and so just before the witching hour we ended another superb day in this most magical of places.

[D and E]

The Barge for the Jetty

It is slow going as this barge appears to bring pre-constructed concrete blocks from Rhodes over to Symi.
Once the new jetty is built then it seems there will be the need for a new road to allow trucks the necessary turning circle.

[silverfox]

So the picture at the Rainbow caused so much angst...not being there...and the need to be there again.

Simple Symi at it's best!

So many thanks D & E....so many pleasures in a few words and pictures!

[D and E]

Sun Setting on Symi - an E pic

Sunday - Day 4 on Symi

Waking up to yet another beautiful day with blue skies and a lovely 30 degrees.

We had thought Irini's boat to Ag. Marina but D pressing the snooze button put paid to that

So we walked to Nimborios instead. We stopped at the shack below the Nirides Hotel and had a beer and a frappe and then moved onto the Taverna at Nimborio where we had some more refreshments before lazing on a sunbed and then swimming before lunch. As we would expect at this time of the year the menu is limited but this turned out to be a bonus as bream was being offered at the same price as the sardines at €8 and a damned fine fish it turned out to be (more photos later as D is knocking this out before we head for the water taxis for the 10am sailing). We had this with dolmades and Greek salad before heading back on foot to the apartment.

We then dumped the bags and set off for Yialos as E fancied some baklava from Patiserie Nikolas. E bought enough to feed all of us that are currently staying in Margaritas We had a beer stop in the Corner Cafe and caught up with the family news before heading back, getting changed and going back round to Elpidas for the nightly ouzo / retsina (s). The first drinks came with a wonderful cheese and egg pie and some chicken curried rice - amazing the nibbles that come out each night - just amazing. The second drinks came with a very sharp cheese and olives - perfect with ouzo.

We had booked a table at Thollos on our way round having seen how busy it is each evening and this was waiting for us on our return - and a lovely table it was too. We couldn't resist the grilled prawn with lemon potato starter between us. E then went for beef in lemon sauce which was a first time dish for us and we were not disappointed - took some persuasion for D to get his usual taste it was that good and it came with some more lemon potatoes. D went for his trusted goat liver and it came with red onions and rice which is the perfect accompaniment to this dish. The liver comes in small pieces and is perfectly cooked. And so after a complimentary ice cream and the retsina was on the house we ended another perfect day on Symi.

[D and E]

Sea Bass Fillet at Odyssia

Monday - Day 5 on Symi

D did the bread run passing the 25+ sailing yachts that berthed the previous evening - seems to be part of some Volvo sponsored regatta. There were copious amounts of empty bottles around and on board the yachts so D thinks this is the sport for him

D and his portable weather machine recorded at 08:00 a Wind Speed (Actual / Maximum / & Average) of 0mph; a temperature of 32.1C; Humidity of 54.1%; and Barometric Pressure of 1014.

Sunday's "plan" was moved to Monday so we headed down to the taxi boats picking up a frappe to go from the Corner Cafe. We got the 10am boat to Ag.Marina and it was full - including our neighbours and very good friends O&L. We agreed to meet in the bar at 11 and then found our respective sunbeds - probably the comfiest of any beach. After a pleasant chat over drinks D decided to swim to the island - we haven't been to Ag.Marina for about three years and the old fool probably wanted to make sure he could still do it. After that we met O&L for lunch with O&D both having the spaghetti with pesto which they both said was delicious. L had a very good looking omelette whilst E had a very good Greek salad and saganaki. The red wine that the boys had with the pasta was fruity and cold and went down a treat.

Back to the sunbeds until O&L caught the 16:20 return boat whilst we waited for the 17:20 and then headed to the Corner Cafe where we had promised to pop in the day before. A small beer set us up for the walk home passing all the copious celebrations that the returning Volvo regatta was giving rise to.

Elpida's for ouzo & retsina and the first drink came with the small Mezes of sausage and potato and the second with the filo cheese pie. These small home made appetisers are so appreciated. We then headed to Odyssia for dinner. Passing the Nireus where there was what looked like a very professional party event for the Regatta - the whoops and cheering certainly suggested everyone was having a great time. Using Google we discovered that this Russian organised regatta is a significant event.

Some may think we are getting old and lazy as in May we hardly ventured beyond Zoe's, Zylygos & Giorgio's when we stayed "up" and this time Tholos and Odyssia are taking centre stage but when you have such wonderful restaurants so close by it is difficult to resist but we might try in the second half of this visit. No promises though.

As an aside we had seen an offer in Symi Tours for a day trip to Kos on the Dodekanese Pride for €36 but alas the boat broke down in the last few days and is currently out of service.

Odyssia was doing a very good trade with visitors and locals all enjoying the wonderful food when we arrived just after 21:00. Our fixation with grilled prawns continued and we shared that as a starter. E then had the sea bass fillet. In most restaurants we frequent back in the UK this dish mostly comes as a small square fillet cut from the body of the fish but in Odyssia you get the whole fish with every bone, the tail and the head removed - a substantial piece of fish and it was perfectly cooked and came with a baked potato. D commented that he must have this on the next visit. He had the linguini with seafood. Perfect al dente pasta with prawns, calamari, tender octopus and mussels - being a pasta lover and having had spaghetti pesto at lunchtime this was his idea of a culinary perfect day. The fish is fixed price and not by the kilo as it so often was in the past. So for three top dishes we paid only €60 with the retsina, semolina & nut cake and a copious plate of water melon being the compliments of the house.

And so we headed round the corner watching the skies and were blessed again with a shooting star - holidays don't come better than this.

[D and E]

The Regatta Event at Nireus Hotel

[D and E]

Taxi to Ag.Marina

[D and E]

The "Boys"

The "Boys" always love a day out on Ag.Marina and a chance of a photoshoot.

[D and E]

Of all the bars .... Elpida's

Those marvellous mouthwatering Mezes.

[D and E]

Ag.Marina

D swam over and floated back

[D and E]

Bream at Nimborios

[D and E]

Gone Fishing - an E pic

[D and E]

Tuesday - Day 6 on Symi

The plan hatched the night before was to head into Yialos for our daily frappe and then head up by the cemetery and over towards Nimborio; have a beer stop at the shack and then perhaps lunch back at Nos Beach and spend the rest of the day there.

The first part of the plan worked although it was about 11:00 by the time we had our frappe. We put this down to the perfect views from our balcony that make leisurely breakfasts so appealing. We then popped in to say hi to George at Alexandra's jewellery shop and then Manolis at his shop and by the time we had caught up on their news our plan changed.

E had the shopping bug and D was thirsty so he headed to the Stellar Bar and E had a wander. By now it was about 2pm so we decided to have a bruschetta lunch at D's favourite spot - TzaTi - just along from the Nireus towards the boatyard. We had a tuna salad with the bruschetta - here it is tomato, cucumber, lettuce, tuna. Whilst having lunch our neighbours O&L were passing and seeing how delicious our fare looked decided to have the same. Chatting and drinking we then looked at our watches and found it was 5pm So we headed back to Margarita's for a short rest before we headed to Elpida's for our nightly apperitife. Once again we were treated to a small plate of risotto with mussels and small cheese dumplings to accompany our drinks.

We then headed left and E bought a bag from Takis that she had seen earlier in the day. We were heading for Meraklis but as we had heard good things about The International we stopped there. There was only one other table of 6 and us two but do not let this put you off if you are passing. This is a well established Symi restaurant that is so often packed with day trippers at lunchtime. We had excellent garlic mushrooms to start - these had been cooked slowly in garlic, tomato and onion and were quite a substantial portion. Thankfully we had only ordered a walnut, Parmesan and balsamic salad. In fact these two starters would have sufficed but we had also ordered the mixed grill which was a meat-fest of sausage, melt in the mouth grilled chicken, a lovely slice of pork, a small kofte with a nice yoghurt dip, and a pork souvlaki with chips and flat bread - well it beat D but only by about two pieces of the souvlaki E had the Mousaka and that was very nicely cooked. We were so full we had to refuse the complimentary sweet from the excellent waiter Andros and simply had some grapes. We have passed this restaurant so many time over our 20 years visiting Symi and were so glad we stopped on this occasion. It is traditional Greek cooking and we would recommend it to anyone.

And so we headed home after one of those perfectly lazy Symi days.

[Gemma1]

More fantastic photos of all that delicious food - though I'm surprised you need to eat much with all the mezes that arrive with your drinks Symi seems to be getting busier as the season draws to an end.