May Mythos & Mezes

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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby JuliaB » 17 May 2016, 09:40

Hi D&E - Your blog has reminded us how much we miss Symi. I think we can taste every mouthful of your meals and are definitely there in spirit! Hopefully in September . . . Meanwhile we're swapping Mythos for Peroni and are off to Italy next week, based in Sorrento and visiting Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast - one of those 'must do's' that we haven't done to date!
Have a great time!
Mike & Julia
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 09:46

Sorry for the delay in posting but as you will read we have had some very unseasonal weather which prevented us getting to our favourite wifi frappe stop but normal service is resumed with three posts today plus some photos -

Saturday - Day 5

The much promised rain became a reality. It should not have been a surprise to us as Yanni has had his plastic chairs out since we arrived - as many of us know this is the best weather forecasting system on the island.
The wind had died down when D went out for an early morning walk to Pedi, returning via the bakery, but by around 10:00 the first few raindrops appeared and within about 10 minutes we had a full on downpour. We remained indoors until about 11:00 when there was a lull so we headed down a deserted Kali Strata and made it to Cafe Aigialos for our morning frappe relatively dry.
We were on a bit of a mission for our neighbour GJ who has a friend arriving next Wednesday and staying in an apartment we stayed in years ago so just to remind ourselves of directions we tested our memories and didn't find them wanting. So we will be able to provide GJ with a map that we hope he will understand.
The clouds over the Vigla were coming and going so we decided that we would have a light lunch and head back to the apartment. We had stopped in Elpida's for a beer / frappe and thought we would order the small Mezes plate off her newly produced menu and we were not disappointed. We shared a €5 plate of olives, herby cheese, bread, tomatoes with balsamic and warm stewed courgette, and with a quarter kilo carafe of retsina, this was perfection as we watched the day trippers disembark from the Nicolas. Over lunch we did get a respite from the rain and in fact the sun did peep through occasionally.
After lunch we walked back up the School Steps, turning right half way up, taking us back onto the Kali Strata. Home just in time before another major downpour hit. The rain lasted well into the evening but we threw on our showerproofs and caps and for the first time in a long time had our ouzo / retsina indoors in Yannis where many of the locals were taking shelter.
We had intended heading down to Trata for dinner but the weather dictated a second visit to Giorgio's which was doing quite well with a very large party of walkers giving the place a real buzz.
We ordered a Mezes of that beautifully garlicky tzatziki; a real favourite of artichokes braised with carrot, potato and fennel; garlic mushrooms that are just that - simply cooked and all the better for it; a barbecued pork chop and peppers stuffed with feta. We still regret that we can no longer be shown round Giorgio's kitchen which was always a great pleasure but the cooking here remains standout.
With the wind still blowing but no rain we walked the short distance back to the apartment resisting the lure of the Eurovision Song Contest emanating from the bars that we passed.
The locals are forecasting similar weather for Sunday but with a promise of wall to wall sunshine thereafter.
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 09:50

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Elpida's Mezes Lunch
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 09:57

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The Souvlaki of the Future in Pedi
Sunday - Day 6

The locals weren't wrong about the weather. Sunday started overcast with spots of rain hardly worthy of mention. For a change we headed to the Olive Tree for breakfast where Janine made us perfectly poached golden yoked eggs on toast with what could be the best cup of coffee on the island. We were given two A4 sheets with walking guides very clearly set out - one for Pedi returning through the valley and the other on how to find the Donkey Track up above the village.
Back to the apartment and the sun poked its head out as we were getting the daily news from Anastasia. E did a bit of clothes washing before we headed out on the new (for us) Pedi walk.
We went down the usual main road and around by the boat builders. The new apartments opposite look like they may be ready soon - that is if someone is still working on them. We headed along past the new jetty all the way to where the path turns stoney and heads towards Ag. Marina. There are some lovely apartments at this end of Pedi and we vow that one of these days we will stay there.
We return and have a beer / frappe stop at Katsaras out on the jetty and as we finish the first few drops of rain start again. We head back via the new route provided by Janine at the Olive Tree and her excellent directions bring us out opposite the chapel that is further up the road from the relatively new desalination plant. By now it is raining steadily.
We return to our apartment in time to see the rain increase and remain on almost constantly for the rest of the day. This provided an opportunity for us to get stuck into our holiday books : D is reading The Bone Clocks by David Mitchell and E is reading the latest in the 44 Scotland Street series - Bertie's Guide to Life & Mothers by Alexander McCall Smith.
There was no way we were going to let rain stop play and interfere with our 100% attendance record at Yannis Rainbow Bar so after "fording" the Kali Strata we joined the locals inside Yannis for a second night before heading to Zyllygos for a second visit. There we meet a Welsh couple who always come at this time of the year and catch up on their news.
For dinner we started with feta fried in a sesame crust which was a perfect partner for the sweet boiled beetroot. E had the chicken with prunes on this occasion whilst D had goat braised in a light tomato sauce. Half way through the meal everyone popped outside to see the fireworks that were marking a wedding - the festivities being held in Giorgio's.
And the rain had gone off.
The general consensus was that Monday would be a fine day and as we walked back to the apartment the moon and stars could be seen as the last of the clouds headed out to sea.
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 09:58

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Fishing Boat in Pedi
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 10:01

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Recycling yesterday's bread on Pedi Walk
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 10:06

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One of many beautiful houses on Symi
Monday - Day 7

We woke up to the prefect Symi blue sky over the Vigla and there was general cheerfulness as D passed all the schoolchildren going to the school just below Zoe's on his way to the bakery. After breakfast we headed down the Pedi Road and after a carry-out frappe from the supermarket on the corner we jump on George's boat for St.Nicolas. We are told that the taverna at Ag.Marina is not open yet. The path to St.Nicks is much improved but we have never missed a "George" yet.
We get our favourite sunbeds and at this time of the year they cost €3 each. It seems it is only later in the season that beds become free if you eat in the taverna.
Of course we ate in the taverna and it being so early in the season it was a "fixed menu" of tzaziki, omelette and Greek salad.
The sea was lovely after the initial "May effect" that is only to be expected.
We returned with George at 16:00, walked back up the Pedi Road and decided to head down - via Yannis of course. P&J stopped on their way down the Kali so we caught up on their news before we headed down to Alegrito where a table of known faces greeted us. There is a new ATM on this side of the harbour between the jeweller and the pharmacy but D, being a creature of habit, popped over to the Alpha Bank.
We then had dinner in Trata where we shared some of our old favourites - horta, liver, stuffed mushrooms and Mousaka. The cooking here has never been anything less than traditionally excellent which was proven by nearly every table being taken by 21:30. We bumped into S&E, a couple whom we had met two nights earlier in Giorgio's, so had a pleasant half hour chatting to them.
With the last bus currently being at 21:00 and taxis being scarce we hiked back up the Kali - another perfect day ends on Symi.
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 10:08

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Imam at Zyllygos
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 17 May 2016, 10:12

JuliaB wrote:Hi D&E - Your blog has reminded us how much we miss Symi. I think we can taste every mouthful of your meals and are definitely there in spirit! Hopefully in September . . . Meanwhile we're swapping Mythos for Peroni and are off to Italy next week, based in Sorrento and visiting Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast - one of those 'must do's' that we haven't done to date!
Have a great time!
Mike & Julia


Hi M&J
Peroni on the Amalfi Coast - now there's tempting.
Have a great time.
We have still to sort dates for the Sept / Oct Symi Visit so one never knows.
Take care,
D&E
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby silverfox » 17 May 2016, 19:53

The Elpida'a Meze looks very tempting! :)
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby Gemma1 » 18 May 2016, 07:36

Another great read - 3 episodes in one :D I had to pay 3 euros for a sunbed at St Nik's in September - the first time I've had to pay when eating at the taverna. Maybe free sunbeds there are now a thing of the past, though 3 euros won't break the bank ;) .

Glad the rain has stopped and hope you have wall to wall sunshine for the rest of your stay :D
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 18 May 2016, 09:17

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Zoe's Silver Bream
Tuesday - Day 8

Where has the time gone. The first week is almost at an end !
We woke up to blue skies again and the temperature is 28C and the humidity has dropped from mid 60s % to 44% (D and his gadgets !!!).
By the time we had a leisurely breakfast, wrote up yesterday's notes and resized some photos for the blog it was 11:00 so time to head down the School Steps for our usual frappe stop. As we do we encounter the arrival of Symi Dream and the day trippers are being assembled into their groups. We battle through the throng.
Over frappe the backlog of posts and photos get posted and the usual plethora of email deleted. Our aim is for Nimborio - try, try and try again.
The taxi boats are still not operating from Yialos. The sign is up outside Symi Tours offering bus trips to Panormitis / Marathounda and to Tolis but when we enquire within we find that this is pre-advertising as the tavernas are not open yet - maybe during our second week.
So we start heading to Nimborio and stop to catch up with Manolis & Angeliki at Odyssia - things are quiet. We then decide to have a beer stop and share a toastie at Nos where "building works" continue. There were no more than 10 people on the beach. By now it was 14:00 so we continued to set out towards Nimborio but by the time we reached the left turning that brings you back to Yialos over by the church we decided to do that. And coming over the top we took the turning opposite the cemetery and past the "zoo" where there are some exotic ducks, some deer, horses and a swan. We were then able to just follow gravity down the maze of steps and come out in the town square beside the plant shop.
We then popped into the Corner Cafe for a chat with "the lads" before heading back up the Kali Strata and a supermarket run to replenish the essentials.
Back out to Yiannis and then to Zoe's where we had the lightest courgette balls and tuna salad to start. E had chicken souvlaki and D had the silver bream which was barbecued and presented beautifully with potatoes, carrots, peppers, onions, garlic and was an absolutely steal at only €18. The dish is now fixed price unlike many restaurants where fish is sold by weight.
And so it was almost 11:30 when we returned to the apartment - quite late for D&E.
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 18 May 2016, 09:20

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Nimborio Not Quite
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby Val » 18 May 2016, 10:18

Enjoying all the detail you are giving us D&E and thankfully you now have the perfect weather for your stay. It's so good to read your updates and drool over all these plates of food you are showing us. Seems like It's getting harder to make a living on Symi and maybe we should all expect to pay a bit more for our stay these days.

Love your photo of 'Nimborio not quite', that view is beautiful and it looks so green after all the rain. I believe statistically the islands have three days of rain in May so seems like you copped for them this year. Happened to us once when we were walking in Eastern Crete and I had forgotten my waterproofs so we called in an open all hours shop for a pacamac (remember them?). The owner almost dismantled the shop in his search for the right size,colour etc. What service. We spent an hilarious hour in there. And when we emerged triumphant with a black raincoat which made me look like the gestapo.....of course....the rain had stopped.

Such memories make our holidays what they are. Worth their weight in gold. What lovely people the Greeks are and how lucky we all are to have found Symi and her friendly and welcoming people. Have a great stay.

Incidentally for those who may remember that my son received horrific injuries in an accident last September, he is now back at work part time and back on his bike working hard to regain his previous level of fitness. Miracles do happen and we count our blessings every day.
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby silverfox » 18 May 2016, 18:43

Great news on your son Val.

Yes we should count our blessings and enjoy our time like D&E are doing so well.

I think Liz will be having at least a few plates of Bream on our trip.

:)
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby Gemma1 » 19 May 2016, 06:46

Great news about Neil Val, it's great news that he's doing so well :D

Hope you make it all the way to Nimborio before the end of your holiday D&E ;)
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 19 May 2016, 09:50

Wednesday - Day 8

After a bread run and breakfast we headed down the School Steps for the usual frappe / wifi stop. Some major electrical rewiring is going on so there is quite a bit of activity by the taxi rank. Also Irini's ticket desk is being re-assembled so the daily taxi boats may well be operating before we leave. A visit to the ATM at the Alpha Bank and a wander round the square and we head for the bus - our first time this holiday but just to save some time - still €1.5 each. We get off at the windmills and come through the back lanes to our apartment, pick up our swimming stuff and head down to Pedi through the route that takes you behind the football ground.
Pedi is quiet - about 10 people on the sunbeds which are now being charged at €4 each. The very pleasant guy fetches us a frappe and we have this with a pie from the supermarket.
The water is refreshing and after a swim and a few chapters of our books we head back up the Pedi road.
In Yannis by 18:30 where we spend a very pleasant time catching up with P&J. They head down and we head for Zylygos again. There are only the two of us in the restaurant. The wind has picked up again so we decide to sit inside. We have the imam for the second time but accompany this with superb grilled prawns. We then share plates of goat and beautifully cooked liver. A complimentary coconut cake and we head home by 22:30.
A very simple and enjoyable day on Symi ends.
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The Prawns in Zylygos
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 19 May 2016, 09:54

Thanks for the posts and so good to read that Val's son has done and is doing so well.

Those on Wednesday flights that have to overnight in Rhodes have just arrived on the Skiadeni but hardly an influx.

Come on UK - Symi needs you :D
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 21 May 2016, 12:04

Thursday - Day 9

The plan was St.Nicks but what are plans for if not changing.

So after a very leisurely breakfast we head down. But rather than use one of the direct routes we head along from Yannis Rainbow bar and simply follow a natural decline through the myriad of paths that go through the houses of Chorio. A new property quite high up has seen the removal of some of the trees which provides a stunning view down into the harbour. This time our route brings us out at the Accountants Offices close to the bottom of the Kali Strata.

The Poseidon has gone for the day - round to Pedi to pick up the guests from the Pedi Beach Hotel. The taxi boats remain in port for now - Monday start is the current thinking. So we have our frappe / wifi stop and watch the Sea Dreams day trip from Rhodes arrive - a large number of people today which is good for Symi. Then the Skiadeni arrives, hopefully bringing summer visitors. George of Alexandra's jeweller arrives back on Symi so E goes to visit one of her favourite shops and comes away with a bangle from his new season collection - even D is impressed.

A wander round the harbour and a Fix / frappe stop at a deserted Elpida's and a visit to the ATM. We then went up the slope behind Odyssia to the church and over to Nos Beach as a holiday on Symi without lunch at Nos would be unthinkable. The same reliable cook that we have known for years so the traditional lunch of her light and herby meatballs accompanied by grilled aubergine with skadalia followed by a shared plate of whitebait ("little fish") makes a perfect light lunch especially when we share the bread with the voracious fish that swim next to the taverna.

Back over through the church but taking the steps down and round the harbour and back up the Kali Strata with a stop at Cafe Aigialos on the way.

The 100% Yiannis record remains in tact. The plan was to head down but on a day of changing plans we headed for Giorgio's for braised mixed vegetables, Mousaka, humus and imam which was possibly the best dinner yet.

We are home by 22:30 with a plan to go to St.Nicks tomorrow.
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E adds to the Symi Collection
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Re: May Mythos & Mezes

Postby D and E » 21 May 2016, 12:10

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From them St.Nicks Steps


Friday - Day 10

We woke up to a perfect Symi sky - one of those that you know is going to produce "a hot one". So D headed for the bakery's whilst E prepared breakfast. The plan to go to St.Nicks for a second time was on.

Heading down the Pedi Road we grab a frappe from the corner shop and jump on George's boat for his first sailing of the day. There are some impressive motor yachts in Pedi Bay. When we reach St.Nicks there is only one other couple there - they have been coming for years and we have got to know them (you know who you are :-) ). We get our usual sunbeds and then D heads up the new steps that have been constructed into the rocks over the winter - an impressive job that makes it much easier for those who wish to walk over.

It may be our imagination but the sea felt slightly less cold. The Cabin is now open and so an 11:00 frappe was enjoyed. The lunch menu had also been extended slightly with sardines and chicken souvlaki being available. We had the Greek salad; feta cheese, tomato and onion omelette; and the sardines (4) which were excellent. We headed home on George's 16:00 return and walked back up the Pedi Road with the firm intention of heading down to Yialos for dinner.

For the second day running a cloudiness formed in the late afternoon. As we sat in Yiannis our "exertions" of the day caught up with us and the plan changed and so we ended up in Zoe's where we started with those earthy lentil based dolmades with tzatziki and her creamy tuna salad. E then indulged in the prawns saganaki which have become a firm favourite and D had wonderful Symi lamb which is cooked on the bone and is all the better for that. A complimentary plate of fresh apples with cinnamon and a Nescafé & ouzo ends another superb meal.

We are told that the weekend weather looks changeable with wind on Saturday and the threat of rain on Sunday. We have arranged to meet Margarita for coffee on Saturday morning to try and sort out dates for our September / October visit and as we head to bed to the feint Greek music emanating from The Secret Garden's music night we think tomorrow may be a walking day.
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