Bring On The Stifado

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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 07 Oct 2015, 08:19

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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby silverfox » 07 Oct 2015, 18:34

Not been on the forum for a week or two so great to see another great blog from you both.

Just making us want to get next year booked back on Symi.

Looking forward to more posts!

:)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 15:52

Very kind comments Silverfox - efheristo boli :D
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 16:53

It is Thursday, but evening as the usual morning post had to be postponed because Symi Tours brought forward the departure time for our second visit to Tolis to 9am. Fair play - they called us on our mobile twice and phoned Margarita to get the message to us.

So we are on the balcony washing out today's swimming gear catching that beautiful light that catches Symi as the sun starts to set - one of the best times of day on this wonderful island.

So working through from yesterday morning : having had a busy day on Tuesday with our farewells to our Swedish friends D had a bit of a lie in and didn't do a bread run. We toasted what was left from the previous day and had that with boiled eggs for breakfast. We then walked to Nimborio. The shack looked closed as it did on Sunday but when we reached that point in the walk it was open so we had a frappe each. We then had a beer in a very quiet taverna, read a bit and just relaxed by the sea. We then had lunch of Greek salad, beautiful sardines and stuffed tomato & pepper with retsina and water it came to €30 including the beers and tip. We walked back around 3pm and fell asleep - it's hard work out here :shock: . We woke in time to do a supermarket run. A very large liner docked at the clock tower and visitors, mainly American, were flooding off so here's hoping they spent loads. We sat and had a frappe watching all the activity which included the early evening Dodec ferry to Rhodes which many Symi visitors were leaving on. It was about 15 minutes late arriving and there was quite a crowd catching the boat. Then there seemed to be an issue with some passengers, and luggage was unloaded and then loaded again after a lot of waving of arms and intense chatter. Then there looked like someone who needed medical attention on Rhodes being brought down and all in all it must have been about 18:30 before they finally sailed - some 45 minutes late. There were a lot of anxious faces and it decided for us that we will take the early morning Blue Star and spend next Wednesday in Rhodes, even though our EasyJet flight to Liverpool is not until the evening - D is easily stressed believe it or not :o

It was then home, shower and change and to Elpida's for an aperitif, watching the last of the cruise liner passengers embark. Last night our ouzo and retsina (s) were accompanied by firstly samosa; then a small plate of olives, cheese and ham; and finally a hot chicken stew. She is just amazing and this is an amazing little bar as so many who visit Symi Chat know.

We then returned to Odyssia where we started with an amazing piece of octopus grilled to perfection and served in the most delicate of lemon dressings - truly stunning. We also had the Gruyere saganaki again, which has a saltiness that went well with the octopus. For mains D had to have his pasta fix so went for the Spaghetti Arabiata which was perfect in every way whilst E had possibly the lightest and most flavoursome moussaka she can recall. The complimentary sweet was a filo based tart with a very light custard, almost Creme Englais, with figs on top. Once again top class cooking and at €40 including tip (the retsina & water being so generously provided by Manolis's daughter) we will be there again before we leave.

So this morning we had an early start with a cheese pie on the move. D is always punctual to the point of being everywhere too early :evil: But that did allow time for a frappe before the Symi Tours bus picked us up just by their offices. We had a full bus and at €7 a head to get you to and from Tolis it is no wonder that this is a popular way of spending a day. The place was much busier than on Saturday with a large group of walkers meeting with some of the people who were on our bus. Great to see this so late in the season although it made the trip up from the beach in the back of the pick-up to where the bus meets you memorable to say the least :D

Although we did not have it today we took special note of the Daphne salad for Sootyandsweep - from the menu and we quote - it is cabbage red & green, lettuce, carrot, balsamic vinegar, honey and walnuts (and ours on Saturday came with thinly sliced apple on top) - it is large as Gemma pointed out and that why it comes in at €9. Today we had the Greek salad, the grilled squid which was a whole squid with the meat being just as tender as could be and tzatziki. With water and retsina and a couple of frappe and a couple of beers we had during the day we paid with tip €45. This is a great place to visit and now a firm favourite on our "Symi Schedule". We arrived back in Yialos at 17:30 and walked back round to our apartment.

Now it's time to shower and head for Elpida's to decide where dinner is tonight - a second visit to Tholos is currently in pole position but it won't be the first time a rank outsider has crept up during our aperitifs.

(I still hear water running so time to put up a few pics up next)

Kalispera.
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 16:57

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The Taverna at Nimborio
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 17:01

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Sardines at Nimborio - D already grabbed one !
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 17:03

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The Cruise Liner last night
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 17:05

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The Octopus at Odyssia
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 08 Oct 2015, 17:07

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Grilled Squid at Tolis
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby sootyandsweep » 08 Oct 2015, 22:48

:) D and E - how kind of you to post the Daphne salad. Got my cousin and his wife coming next week for a Texan Chili Pie - chili with cornmeal - not polenta - cornmeal bread topping - lovely and will make the salad to go with it. I shouldn't read your blogs before bed - feel like going for a sandwich now instead of bed!!! :D
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 09 Oct 2015, 06:52

Hi Sootyandsweep - all part of the service :D
Like the sound of that Texan Chilli Pie : it was mealie puddins in my days in the North East ;)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby Gemma1 » 09 Oct 2015, 07:26

Another great report. I was debating about whether or not to return to Symi next September but after reading your reports I'm really not sure that I can stay away.... ;)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 09 Oct 2015, 07:35

Friday morning and after a later than usual bread run which saw all the croissants taken by yacht crews :'( we are having breakfast totally alone as all the other guests have now left Margarita's. We saw a marked change last night as we walked back from the Symi Tours drop off around 17:30 with the sponge shops closed and whilst sitting in Elpida's later in the evening other shops were closing earlier than usual. It is now 09:30 Friday and there is one person below us on Nos Beach !

Today we will have what we regard as a "sigs siga" day and aim to walk over to Pedi and back with a few frappe / beer / read stops on the way.

So to last night. Paying the same respect to Elpida's as we do to Yannis Rainbow Bar when we stay "up" we continued our 100% attendance record. Our aperitifs were last night accompanied by samosa and then cheese, ham, olives and pickled veg. On leaving we discovered that our first drinks had been paid for by the lovely man from Tolis (Komynos). The generosity of the Symiots has always been an endearing quality and even in these difficult times they show such kindness that it is humbling.

So we walked round a very quiet harbour where Kaboz and Vaporetta only had a handful of customers. Odyssia was fairing much better and Tholos was very busy. We returned to Thollos where we shared a starter of grilled prawns. 5 "beasts" arrived accompanied by 5 lemon potatoes. These were prawns of the highest quality - simply cooked, meaty and sweet. E decided to have the aubergine grilled with minced beef and topped with cheese which she described as the best thing she has eaten this holiday. D went for the Soutzoukakia which were not overly sauced and came with the choice of rice, fried potatoes or pasta - D being a "pasta-head" went for the pasta and that was a perfect accompaniment. With a complimentary chocolate ice cream topped with crushed hazelnuts E declared this the best meal yet and this has thrown "last night" discussions into turmoil :o With the usual water, retsina and tip this memorable dinner in that perfect of locations (pic coming up next) with the every friendly and efficient staff cost us €45.

The short walk to our apartment and we ended yet another lovely day.
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 09 Oct 2015, 07:37

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Yialos from Tholos last night
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby sootyandsweep » 09 Oct 2015, 13:09

D and E wrote:Hi Sootyandsweep - all part of the service :D
Like the sound of that Texan Chilli Pie : it was mealie puddins in my days in the North East ;)

:D And there is no finer food than a good mealie with a plate of mince and tatties. 8-)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby Allan » 09 Oct 2015, 19:13

I hope you've decided where you are going to eat in The Village tomorrow evening after your 18.45 appointment at The Sunrise. ;)
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 07:12

Hi Allan - I am sure there will be a welcome in the hillside if we venture up this evening :D
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 08:29

Saturday morning and D is just getting lazier with no fresh bread appearing, so toasting yesterday's leftovers for breakfast today. The sun is up, the skies are blue and we only have 4 days left - where has the time gone :shock:

We have two new very pleasant neighbours so have been comparing experiences of Symi over the years, as you do.

So yesterday we set off for Pedi with our first stop for frappe watching the 11am Louka boat head out. We then headed for the Kali from the steps behind the taxi rank, past Thea apartments where we stayed once. We then decided to divert off the Kali and cut across to the "School Steps" and on reaching Chorio had a beer stop at Yiannis Rainbow where we watched intrepid day trippers "do the Kali".

From Yannis we headed along the road where you get that splendid view of the harbour framed by the tall pines. We then headed through the maze that is Chorio seeing the ancient passage ways and some excellent renovated properties. The attention to detail to maintain the character of the island is admirable. We worked our way across coming out at Sevastis Studios and by then it was 2pm so rather than head down the Pedi road we made our way back into Yialos where three day boats from Rodos had deposited a welcome influx of day trippers. After a shared omelette in the Corner Cafe we headed back to the apartment where E had a swim and caught the last of the sun over Nos.

It being the start of the weekend we had a two stop aperitif. The first in Elpida's (of course) and then in Alegrito who always put out some lovely salami and feta with your ouzo. Then we headed to Meraklis which was busy but this time we got a table. We started with steamed mushrooms with feta and beetroot with skadalia. Followed this with lamb and lemon potatoes (D) and Soutzoukakia (E) which were in a very good tomato sauce. The lemon potatoes with the lamb would give Tholos a run for their money and the lamb was exceptional in terms of taste. We reckon that lamb tends towards hogget or even mutton to get the flavour and then cooked for a long time to get the melt in your mouth texture. With the usual and a beautiful complimentary sweet which was jelly on top of custard on top of honey soaked sultanas we paid €35.

Now to see if we can actually make Pedi today - perhaps avoiding Yannis Rainbow on the way over is the secret :o
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 10 Oct 2015, 08:31

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Our Downfall - Yannis Beer
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:43

Sunday morning at 09:00 and the threatened rain has not appeared but it is a bit blowy. The sun is up and so far cloudless. On the bread run today one of the taxi boats was being put away for the winter at Harani.

So yesterday we had our usual frappe stop before catching the noon bus to Pedi which was standing room only with a number of visitors getting off for the Pedi Beach Hotel. We hadn't spent a day on Pedi beach for a number of years so we took sunbeds beside Katsaras which we estimate cost €4 as for two plus a large bottle of Fix it came to €12. The sea was lovely and with a picnic lunch of cheese & ham and sausage pie from the kiosk we had a lovely day.

We walked back over to Yialos and during a beer stop at the Stella Bar we bumped into another couple of Symiholics who we have met when staying in Anastasia's in Chorio. It was good to catch up with C&M.

We had the first ouzo & retsina stop at Elpida's and as we had decided to return to Trata had a second stop at Alegrito and E took the opportunity to visit George the jeweller ..... and made a purchase.

Trata had a few people in and we started with the old favourite of stuffed mushrooms. With this we had the imam which was delicious, so good we could easily have devoured a second but we resisted. D then had the Mousaka which is always good there and E had the liver again. With the usual it came to €35. Trata always serves up a traditional menu and never disappoints.

As we walked back there was a large party going on in Manos Fish with Greek dancing and the remnants of crockery being swept up. A flotilla of Turkish yatchs arrived early evening and we think they descended on Manos. It was great to see.

And so only 3 days left :'(
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:46

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The Turkish Flotilla Arriving
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:49

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The Turkish Flotilla Docked
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 11 Oct 2015, 07:51

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Taxi Boat Bedding Down for Winter
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 12 Oct 2015, 08:02

Monday morning and the promised rain has just arrived at 09:00 - it is very light rain so far. There are dark clouds over the Vigla but the sun is shining on Nimos. We have experienced days like this before in October and enjoy the changing face of Symi that the weather brings. It is expected to last the morning and clear in the afternoon. Plenty of time to sort out the PhotoLibrary and get on with the book and as these are only light showers do some cafe hopping.

We omitted to say that on Saturday night the "train" passed us full of young children having the time of their lives - we assumed a birthday party. It stopped at Hirani where two little girls from the shop that has moved there, in all their finery, jumped on to great cheers. Great to see this venture being used by visitors and locals alike.

We also omitted to say that when we reached Trata for dinner the Rugby World Cup game between England and Uruguay was showing in the bar next but one to the taverna.

So to Sunday and what started out as blowy became very windy but not bad enough to stop two day boats arriving and the Dodec doing its thing. Posseidon didn't venture out and one of Louka & Irini's taxi boats made a quick change of plan and headed to Tolis. We headed round into Yialos for our usual frappe and then went to Symi Tours to buy our tickets for the Wednesday 08:15 sailing of the Blue Star. A much more reasonable time for a morning ferry and at €8 per head, €5.50 cheaper than the Panagia Skiadeni that we came over on.

We then walked up past Iopetas Hotel and up the steep hill to the cemetery and over towards Nimborio but only went as far as the shack where we had a beer stop and then returned to Nos Beach for lunch of grilled vegetables (pepper, aubergine, mushroom & courgette with a balsamic dressing (new) and skadalia - doesn't need both), the best meatballs on the island and tuna salad (the without salad kind). With the usual it came to €30. A complimentary piece of semolina cake that hasn't changed in all the years we have been coming, except now it has maple syrup drizzled on it (blame Masterchef !), ended lunch in what we regard as the perfect spot even with the perpetual "building". And of course the ceremonial throwing of the uneaten bread into the sea to watch the shoals of bream devour it in seconds was a must.

Home to read and siesta and then out to Elpida's for the ouzo and retsina which came with the usual array of changing mezes - all the perfect accompaniment. The big decision with only three dinners left was a return to Tholos as it has become the restaurant of the holiday just pipping Odyssia. Even with the dying wind precautions had been taken with the covers being up which intensified the conversation of a group of Americans on the table behind us. It seemed to be a competition as to who had traveled most. Thankfully peace and quiet returned as our shared starter of those superb prawns again arrived - this dish has made it to our final night choice already !! We followed this with chicken fillet in a light lemon sauce (E) - this came with rice; and traditional lemon goat (D) which came with the legendary lemon potatoes. We take back what we said about Meraklis getting close on the lemon potato front - last night's were simply sublime. As for the goat this had clearly been cooked with lemons for a long time and fell off the various bones that all add to the taste. The complimentary sweet was Greek yoghurt with honey and figs - beautiful. The bill came to only €40 as we discovered that the Retsina was on the house - another example of Greek generosity.

The "long" walk to Maragaritas and a chat with our neighbouring guests and another enjoyable day ended.

PS. It's now 10:00 am and the rain has gone and just blue skies and sun over the Vigla - normal service has been resumed. Frappe time !!
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Re: Bring On The Stifado

Postby D and E » 12 Oct 2015, 08:04

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The Gathering Clouds
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